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107 EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET QUESTION
I just received my new exhaust manifold gaskets for my 350SL and am noticing that one side of the gasket is metal, while the other side is some sort of material other than metal. My question is - which side of the gasket goes towards the engine? My old gaskets do not have the metal material on one of the sides. BTW, I had to drill out the stud closest to the firewall on the passenger side and to get a drill bit in there I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of their $35 right angle air powered drills. It did a fantastic job!
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92 300E - 116K miles - Sold 77 Euro 350SL - 67k miles 94 Explorer 147k miles 2009 Hyundai Genesis - 65k miles |
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Metal side to cylinder head.
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thanks
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92 300E - 116K miles - Sold 77 Euro 350SL - 67k miles 94 Explorer 147k miles 2009 Hyundai Genesis - 65k miles |
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Quick answer! I know that Frank knows his stuff, but for what it's worth, this is what I read on Porsche forum:
Quote:
Last time, I bought a good but rusty used manifold. Cleaned it up, painted with POR Hi-Heat paint and polished the gasket face. Then drilled the stud holes very slightly oversize. This because it seemed to me that studs (or holes) were not spaced exactly equally. Idea was to give some room for expansion. But to be honest, don't know which way round gaskets were installed. Also learned to set timing more advanced and have engine run cooler. No cracks now for over 10 years. I did have a broken stud on drivers side a long time ago. Had shop do repair. I seem to recall that they had to take head off to do repair. But, in your case HF drill came through. Well done.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
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Good info - thanks. I wondered how a stud could break off at the head unless there was not enough slack for the expansion and contraction of the manifolds. Indeed - seems that enlarging the holes would give room for manifold movement. Oddly enough, I was halfway thinking of doing the same thing.
While we're on the subject of enhancements, I modified the WUR and AAV so I could "adjust" them. The write up on the WUR is well documented on the Porsche side, but I'm not sure there is a write up on the AAV enhancement. I basically drilled a hole in the top of the AAV and tapped a thread for a M8 x 1.25 bolt which I used to "push" the the top of the AAV up and allow more air at higher temps. I'm doing this in an attempt to solve a warm start issue I've been having since I bought the car on eBay (I've already done the the normal tasks to solve the problem). I suspect that some of the parts on the car (AAV perhaps) are not original to the engine. And so, I've been experimenting and have noticed that the problem is not as persistent since I adjusted the AAV to allow more air at higher temps. I suspect I can go a little higher and allow more air at high temps and use the idle adjustment screw as little as possible. I'm still experimenting. I was wondering how much idle adjust screw play is supposed to be available. I need to do some more reading on how the CIS manages air flow - metered and unmetered. Hope you don't mind me droning on about this stuff that is totally unrelated to the original thread.
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92 300E - 116K miles - Sold 77 Euro 350SL - 67k miles 94 Explorer 147k miles 2009 Hyundai Genesis - 65k miles |
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No problem. My 350SL is a D-Jet, so can't help you with CIS warm starting.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
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