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#1
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Parting out 82 240D
Since no one needed the thing whole, I'm parting out the 82 240D described here:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/375307-fs-1982-240d-drivable-parts-car-%24900.html I'm keeping the engine, transmission, and everything required to run the engine (radiator, starter, glowplug relay, etc) for other projects, but most of the rest is fair game. I'm keeping the instrument cluster as I may need some of it later. I've already pulled the engine and transmission out. Interior's pretty rough. Besides that, a few parts which I know are still useful: * Steering box (assuming I can work out how to disconnect the joints) * Power steering pump * Climate control parts (three knob manual system) * Hubcaps (white; one has been repainted rather poorly and some of the spring clips are a little rusty but still work) * Taillight shells, front turn signal shells * One of the headlight lenses is shot due to water freezing in it, the other may be intact. I can send pictures if anybody's interested. * Manual crank windows all work if anybody's wanting to convert an electric window car to cranks * Driveshaft, axle shafts, differential I would say brake parts as I replaced most of those about two or three years ago and didn't put many miles on them, but I live in an area that gets a lot of road salt and so rust has already taken a toll. If somebody wants to take a chance on them I'm not opposed to pulling the front calipers and selling cheap. The master cylinder was a reman just a few years ago but it didn't get painted and so it's now very rusty and ugly. Still functions fine, to the best of my knowledge. The hood and trunk lid are in good shape; every other body panel has got rust bubbling through the paint. Those would need to be local pickup as I am not up to boxing and shipping something that unwieldy. Let me know what's needed and I'll see if I've got it and we can discuss price. This will all go pretty cheap. I'm not trying to get rich here, I just want anything useful not to be wasted when I haul it to the recycler. Also, I need an oil cooler for this 240D engine (I damaged the old one during the engine removal), a great condition driver's door interior panel for an 82 300SD (not sure the official color but it's kind of a greyish blue) and I also need a ready-to-use blower motor for an 86/87 300SDL with good brushes, so I'll trade any of this plus some cash if needed to break even for any of those. Local pickup is no problem or shipping is going to be from Valle Crucis, NC (zip code 28604 will come up as Banner Elk). |
#2
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How much for the master and front calipers? Zip 01824 for shipping.
__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#3
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Is the right side mirror manual or electric? Interested if manual, and if it's in half-decent shape.
Also, possibly interested in the sun visors. I'm interested if they're the old style without the lighted vanity mirrors, and if they're in good shape. The color would be off (mixed palomino/bamboo interior), but I'd be interested if they're in good shape and the price is right? Price for the mirror shipped to 01604? Price for the mirror and the visors shipped to 01604? Thanks |
#4
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Quote:
The calipers... little bit less so. They aren't that much older, but the corrosion moves fast around here. The pad backings were actually stuck to the pistons, had to fight them off with vise grips and a hammer; that may be common enough for all I know, but it's the first time I remember having to do that. I put some Kroil on the bleeder screws and they aren't stuck yet, although pretty crusty. Will upload some more pictures in subsequent post. I'm thinking $45 for all three items, shipping included. That's $15 for the pair of calipers, $20 for the master cylinder and $10 as a nominal shipping guess rather than having to figure it out exactly. (You'll probably win on that one since the calipers aren't lightweight, but I'm content.) If you don't want the calipers after seeing them then I'll do $25 all-included for the master cylinder + shipping. PM me if interested. I can send you a Paypal email address or we can discuss other options. |
#5
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More caliper pictures. The rust may just be on the exposed surfaces and the bores could still be okay -- I didn't think to extend them and check before I'd already opened the system and removed the MC.
They were functioning correctly and not seized when removed, for what that's worth. |
#6
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Quote:
I'm also not quite sure how to remove them; I'll check for some forum threads once I finish this post. Assuming removal isn't a big deal, then I'd say $25 all-included for the mirror + shipping. The visors are indeed the plain, unlit variety, but they're in lousy shape. The internal foam has become hard, crunchy, and partially disintegrated; they sound like dry Rice Krispies when handled and they're lumpy-looking where they're coming apart inside. The outer covering on one of them is cracking open on one end, and the glass mirror and the metal hinge rods are all pretty nasty with unidentified rust of various colors. In addition, somewhere between the right side of the car and the left side, I forgot where I put two of the screws that hold them to the roof. If I find them I'll include all four; if not, I'll include the two I didn't lose yet. I can try to clean them up a bit but I can't do anything about the crumbling insides or the split covers. They're yours for $5 extra ($30 total) if you think you can do something with them. PM me if you want to go ahead with any of this and we can figure out Paypal or other options. |
#7
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Last remaining pictures of visors.
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#8
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Quote:
Here's a video on removing that knob: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usb670r6ASw Here's my take on the process - If you're sitting in the car, and looking at the knob straight on, you'll see the adjustment knob points more or less in your direction. If you look on the opposite side of the mirror, you'll see, for lack of a better description, some ribs in the plastic. Push that ribbed piece in the direction of the door window. You'll likely need a small screwdriver to push it. Once you unclip that smaller piece, the bigger piece of the adjustment knob will just slide off the metal bar. Slide it off in the direction of the rear of the car. Once the knob is off, carefully pry back the chromed plastic triangular trim plate and remove that. Once that's off, there are 3 philips screws to remove. These are the last items holding the mirror on to the door, so be sure to hold on to the mirror housing while removing the last screw. All told, if that mirror knob doesn't give you any trouble (they can get a litle sticky), the mirror should come off in just a few minutes. Quote:
So, yes. I'm interested in all of the above. PM me with payment details and we'll go from there. Thanks. |
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