98 ml320 window regulator replaced by dealer
 

The driver's front window died in the down position (102k miles-I am original owner). I replaced the switch assembly based on info posted here, but no change. Brought it to the dealer.Confirmed switch was ok. Regulator (163-720-11-46, $100), rivets (003-990-24-97,$5) and 3 hrs labor ($99/hr)=all fixed. Unfortunately, have to bring it back because the plastic liner shows at the edge of the door panel-very sloppy. Service advisor was very upset too. Anyone know if the 3 hrs labor is per MB rate book? I ask because this dealer charges more than MB list for parts, really burns me.

Rivets??! So now, they aren't bolted on, but riveted?

More ways to keep the DIY'ers at bay!

I did a couple of regulators on my W124 and each took me about 1.5 hrs (and I work slowly and carefully)...

I dunno. An ML panel AND rivets? Perhaps.

Since I have taken the door panels off my w124s, I was considering a DIY on the ml; but once I read on this forum about the rivets I decided not to bother.

I'm hearing clicking noises from the front passenger side window...I fear I'm up for a repair in that area in the future.

I would like to try my hand at doing it myself (including rivets)...anyone know how to remove the ML door panels?

The door panels just pop off and up. In other words, use a screwdriver or putty knife, put a cloth over it so you don't scracth anything, insert it at the bottom rear corner and pop the panel out. One you have all of the plastic retainers poped out on the front, bottom and rear, then lift the entire panel up. Once it is free you will then have to remove the cable for the door locks and handle (easy to do). Do a search and you should find a couple of good threads and pics. There was even some discussion on the rivets.

I recently had both of my passenger doors done at the dealer. The lock actuator was about $97, and labor was about $150 (hour and a half). My ML is a 99 and they gave me 90% good will so I only had to pay 10%.