I have a 98 ml 320 ( 105,000) the problem is when you lock the driver's door the button trys to go down but then pops up. The alarm is on and all of the other doors lock. Before I remove the panel ( is it all clips except the handle ? ) must I replace the locking mechanism ?

P.S. The rear problem was the center carrier bearing...........thank God......

Yes, the latch comes with the locking solenoid. Very common ML door lock problem.

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Common and cheap; I think for once you'll be amazed that an entire locking and latching assembly is available for under $70 on an MB product

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Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default

anyone have the part numbers and guide on how to replace the dang thing. I have the same problem

Just replaced the drivers side door lock on my '98 ML. Here's my experience.
1. Be careful when removing the door panel. Use a door panel removal tool (bent tool with a forked end available at parts stores like Kragen). The plastic clips that hold the door panel to the sheet metal have plastic holders that are integral to the door panel. If you just use a screw driver to pry the door and then give a hard tug you have a good chance of breaking the plastic clip holder. Mine has several holders broken by the previous owner. When I reinstalled the door panel I purchased new clips (about $2.00 ea) from MB, different design than the orginal clips. The new clips work better than the old clips and now the panel is less prone to popping loose.

2. To remove the door panel. The wood trim on the door handle can be pryed off by inserting a small screw driver into the slot located at the bottom end of the trim piece. Remove the two screws under the door handle trim. The small triangular panel (sail panel) by the door mirror just pulls off. Pop out the door door clips using appropriate tool to pry the door panel. Unhook the door latch cable.

3. Pull enough of the door panel plastic out of the way to gain access. Roll window all the way up. Drill out three of the four rivets holding the window guide in place. Two at the bottom one at the top. The one to drill at the top is the one closest to the door jamb and can be reached without removing the door air bag. I used a 5/32 bit to drill out the rivets and then used the 5/32 bit to open up the holes slightly to accept 4mm diameter aluminum rivets.

4. Unplug the lock actuator by reaching in the door panel and removing the wiring harness.

5. Remove the two screws holding the lock actuator to the door panel. These screws are in the edge of the door where the door latch is located. Two torx head screws.

5. The lock tumbler needs to be removed next. There is a small 4mm hex screw hiding behind the lock actuator. Normal allen wrenches won't reach. I bought a set of T-handled hex wrenches (I believe the brand was Bohunds) and then took them back for refund after I finished. To expose the screw, the rubber plug in the door panel needs to be removed and the lock actuator rotated counter clock-wise. The rubber plug is in the face of the panel opposite from where the key inserts the door. Loosen the 4mm screw and pull / wiggle out the lock tumbler.

6. With the tumbler out, door jam screws out, and wiring disconnected, the lock actuator is free. Rotate the window track out of the way and wiggle / worm / wrangle, the lock actuator out.

7. Install is reverse of remove. I used 4mm dia aluminum rivets and a standard manual riveting tool to re-attach the window guide. No prob.