Would you buy a 98 ML320?
 

My wife and I were at the shop, dropping of my 450SL for a new steering coupler and a gearbox adjustment when she eyed the car she wants next-
a 1998 ML320 for $12.5K
She test drove it and liked it alot.
My concern is that its high mileage for a US made Benz (88K), and in perusing this forum I see lots of nagging problems.


She is a Realtor, and I'm concerned about this vehicle's reliability. She wants to get the ML and get rid of her '03 Camry and I'm just kinda concerned about the reliability of this model.

What other than the fuel filter upgrade, should I look for/ask about on this before buying?

NO! that should be priced around $8500.

1998 Ml
 

I sold my ML one year ago for $12k it had 70kt and was very well maintained.
It had all the upgrades ie. new harmonic balancer, fuel filter and air conditioner wire harness. I felt very fortunate to sell it at that price.

I would not have bought it for $12k. maybe $8-9k

If your wife really wants a ML buy a 2001 or newer.

Mucho squeaks and rattles in the 98-99 models, also, rattles from rear door latch, problems with the door locks, and the engine no-start feature with the alarm hanging up on occasion. 01 and newer is a best bet.

JUST WALK AWAY!Look for a slightly newer one. After 2000 or just avoid buying them. I had a ML320, the first year they were produced, I drove it out of the showroom doors. They are uncomfortable and bad. Dont buy them

NO! :thumbsdow

Nope

Strange. My ML was one of the first off the assembly line in 1997 (1998 model year) and was owned by the dealer's wife - I have had almost no problems at all other than a few rattles. But, then again, if it was an early model AND owned by the dealer then it would stand to reason that it was quality controlled to death and maintained. I paid too much for it (I didn't know any better at the time - plus the dealer had me over a barrell over poor body work on my w202 and no one else would accept it as a trade).
Based on what everyone else has said - my experience is not typical for the '98 ML.

My 99 issues were solved during warranty. Not had any real problems with mine. I suppose owners of '00 models and up have heard the horror stories of the 98 and 99 models (which are probably 5% of the total 98/99 ML ownership experiences) and have concluded that it's best to stay away from them.

Not so. But I will add, that early model-year runs always have growing pains, and that it's typically best to target model years that have had a chance to work the bugs out.

My 98 ml had the usual teething problems, all fixed under warranty. The only things I recall doing at my expense were MAF, done by me, and front door window regulator done by dealer. Also the B-pillar trim on passenger side came off and I have to reattach it. Now have 125,00 miles and drives very well.

My folks have a '99 ML320 which they bought new and speaking from a mechanic's point of view, the problems they experienced are nothing unusual to any early Mercedes model. Anything "major" was covered under warranty, and to be honest there really wasn't anything that was too "major". Mostly electrical glitches. I've serviced it with synthetic every 5K miles and they have kept up on all of the services, slicing normal recommendations in half to prolong the life of the vehicle and it has really been a great car (my mother drives it). I've actually got it in my shop as we speak for a minor service and tune up as they are leaving for Florida next week.

Looking back at it, I do recall one major repair, covered under warranty. That was the transfer case, a common problem on early models. That was right at 50K miles and it now has 116K with no problems since.

I'd advise you to only buy an early model if all of the updates and fixes have been completed and documented (i.e. transfer case, harmonic balancer, fuel filter mod, trip computer, etc...). It's also a bonus to have documented 5K fully synthetic oil changes, as I seem to recall that when I was at the dealer (when the ML was introduced) we were putting a lot of engines in them (in particular, over the sedans) because of MB's goof on the FSS 10K oil changes with dino goop.

make sure you have all or most of the keys
 

The pre-2000 models had an eight-key limit; be sure that you have at least a spare key and also the valet key before you buy. Check with the service dept at that dealer or call another one with the VIN and have them check with MBUSA first to see how many keys can be purchased down the road. As rediculous as this sounds, the pre2000 models had a primitive antitheft computer that only accepted eight keys before the whole thing had to be replaced. Depending on how many people owned the car previously you can get in a bad spot. Check my other post and replies on this matter, particularly from Gilly.

Do not buy a 98 ML. It is the most miserable problem laden P.O.S. I have ever owned. The newer models have worked out some of the problems but the '98 is just bad.

My 98 is just fine. SN 23619.

I have a 1998 ML320, and drives like brand new. The P.O. did all of the required work on time, and had it all done by the book. He replaced every little thing that went wrong. Hell, he even replaced the broken handle just above the passanger door, because it would not spring up nice and tight.

He gave us all of the record since day one, and he has had all of the recalls and service campaigns done on it. It has 133k miles on it, but everything is pretty much new, so I am really not worried about it.

Oh yes, they rated the ML with 10,000 mile oil changes... He replaced the oil every 3,000 miles. And on a side note, it would be perfect for the real estate agent. The guy we bought it from was a real estate agent. He drove the car everyday when he owned it. I really wouldn't worry all that much, as long as everything has been done. On time that is.