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  #1  
Old 09-09-2006, 10:22 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
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Unhappy MAS snorkel 98ml320

While removing the snorkel to get at my EGR valve the tab on the bottom of the snorkel at the manifold snapped off. It 's the flat round piece about the size of a medium coin. Assembled now, the snorkel looks and feels very secure and stable. Is performance going to be compromised? Has this happened to any one else? Should I order a new snorkel? I don't think JB Weld would be strong enough!?

Thanks in advance,
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  #2  
Old 09-11-2006, 08:11 AM
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JB weld can really secure non-moving parts if allowed to cure properly..time will tell..
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  #3  
Old 09-11-2006, 11:06 AM
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Nisan, would you please describe how to remove the snorkel-it seems very tight and I didn't know what to do. I have the code for a clogged EGR tube.Thanks.
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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
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  #4  
Old 09-11-2006, 10:32 PM
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The below is a clip and pasted composition from other posts and threads that I take and save into folders. So when it's time to work on that part I have the info at my finger tips. I didn't mean to confuse the MAS flexible intake ducting with the snorkel, but it was the ducting that was the bear to get out and upon doing so snapped off the tab. I don't have a MB manual yet so I try as best as I can to paint a mental picture when I study the posts.

..............................................................................................

The Mercedes Service Manual for the M112 engine would be the best place, if it is anything like the manual that I have on the M115. Very detailed with pictures. The procedure is really easy, though. side of the engine. The valve is held by two torx-head bolts and The EGR valve is located on the rear of the passengers the flexible tube is attached to the intake manifold via a flange and two torx-head bolts. You have to remove the engine cover, the flexible intake ducting between the mass airflow sensor and manifold, and the wire to the EGR valve to gain access. I also found it easier to get to by removing the wire to the nearest fuel injector to gain access to the bolts and make removing the wire to the EGR easier. After that, you have to loosen the tube connection to the EGR valve, pull the wire to the valve, and the vacuum tube going to it. After that, remove the two bolts to take the valve off. Remove the two bolts in the tube flange and snake the tube out of the intake with a twisting motion (it is a complex shaped snorkel going down into the manifold probably about 8 inches). If it is clogged, you will see the carbon plugging the end after it is extracted. While you have everything off, take a screwdriver and delicated pry up on the diaphragm in the EGR valve and make sure it is free to move. That was what was wrong with my EGR valve itself. I put a new one on because it was in my hand and I got it cheap, but I could have cleaned the old one after freeing it up and probably been OK.



Easy job! However P0 400 doesn't mean that the valve is bad.
Most of the time you will find the EGR valve pipe clogged-up.

The valve is behind the RIGHT cylinder head.
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  #5  
Old 09-12-2006, 10:12 AM
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Thanks, Did you have to replace any gaskets or o-rings when you put everything back?
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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)
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  #6  
Old 09-12-2006, 07:38 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Richard,
I was going in there just to clean out the EGR tube(snorkel) when I was having trouble with one of the E12 torx bolts. It was pretty cramped under the ridged line near the last fuel injector. I was just going to get the new EGR valve and gasket and whatever else before I put more effort into. I was also going to get a smaller universal joint or whatever can get to that bolt without too much restriction.
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