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#1
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Radiator Plug
After reading some threads about flushing the radiator, mine looks to be in a location which I think the front bumper needs to be removed, then a mess will be happen because the plug is facing to the front of the truck instead of downwards. Is this the case on some early models?
Is there an easier way to do this? I don't want to disconnect the bottom hose because in the location where it is, I think it will not drain the bottom of the radiator. Thank in advance for your help, Rene
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'99 ML320, '00 C280 |
#2
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Quote:
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#3
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whether one turns the plug or pulls the lower hose, the end result is the same. you only drain about 2/3 of the coolant out. The remainder is left inside the engine block. Pulling the lower hose is the method dealer uses. They don't bother to flush, just drain and refill. If one replaces his/her coolant regularly (i.e. every 2-3 year), this method is more than sufficient to keep the engine cool and rust free. If you have a large shallow bucket that holds about 3 gallon, pull the lower hose is the easiest and hassle free coolant change. you can always rinse the spill off with your garden hose.
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#4
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I would do the radiator drain. I feel the info is correct about most dealers actually just replacing the coolant, not actually "flushing" the system with water.
OK, radiator drain, you can get from the hole in the bumper, use a needle nose pliers, and also a small slip-joint pliers may come in handy as different angles are needed. Need to rotate 1/4 turn ccw and pull out. It doesn't open up as well as the other MB vehicles, a bit slow, but yeah this is do-able and getts more fluid out than the lower radiator hose does. Be sure to loosen and drain at the BLOCK too. Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#5
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Thanks Gilly,
I'll follow your advise. I preffer to use the plug because it is the downmost section of the radiator, and I read from others that some saw some black hard particles coming out of there, maybe also on the bottom of the engine plug too. I have my maintenance up to date per the book at 103K, but living in FL I though coolant was not that important to replace, so this is my first coolant change. I know, I know... but so far I have no temp problems and no coolant loss. I understand about the dealer's way. I went the other day for alignment and break fluid flush, and they told me that now it is called "break fluid refresh"...mind you... I don't know what the diffeence is but still I asked them to do it. Thanks again, I will report if I run into any problems. I'll do it next weekend, and yes I am using MB yellow stuff. Rene
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'99 ML320, '00 C280 |
#6
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As long as a brake fluid "refresh" doesn't consist of the tech just replacing the fluid in the reservoir, as I know one tech in particular thinks this is appropriate if he is in a rush to get work cranked out........
Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#7
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I hope that is not what they did because I payed $119.95 for that "refresh" thingy. I will find out though.
Rene
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'99 ML320, '00 C280 |
#8
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You can go to Pep Boys and buy a gallon of Zerex G05 (same exact coolant as MB brand as Zerex makes it for MB) at 1/2 the cost...
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