ML320 dash lights on, wont shift out of 1st gear HELP!!!!!!!!!
 

I posted this last month, heres my posting:



I have a 2001 ML320, and the shop that has it is stumped as to why the problem is occuring, they have scanned it, and found this. First, they cleared the codes, and found the B1041 code as Can communication trans to track control system faulty, then another code, P2068, P20CC rough rode detection signal, P2036 Incorrect can message from control unit, and B1470 as well.

The problem came as my wife was driving it, the speedo went dead, several warning lights came on, but she could still drive it fine. It happens on and off sometimes it happens several times, corrects itself, drives fine, then happens again, the shop is not for sure what to fix, and the next deal is the MB dealer, PLEASE, any help!


The ML now sits, and will sit, maybe forever, I have found NOBODY that can fix it for sure, everybody seems stumped on this problem, but after reading other fourms, I see that I am not alone! Ohters have had this exact problem too, but I have yet to find that they got there car fixed ever! WOW, Had I known this, I would have NEVER bought an ML. I own a Porsche service shop, but we can only read what the scanner says (see above) not sure what to do, but park it for good! Yes, we replaced the brake light switch, that cleared ONE code only.

I think its odd, that not event he MB dealer is sure what to do, except throw parts at it thill they find it, which gets very expensive, and if they replace a part, I am stuck with it, regardless of if mine was bad.

I can replace the computer for the track system for roughly my cost of $380, but it seems odd that this will fix everything, and allow it to shift out of first gear too!

WHY so many problems that occured within a second of driving it one day, everyhting happened all at once. Unless anybody can help, it stays parked in my lot forever, if I cant fix it, or find someone who can, seems weird for MB, never had a problem like this with Porshes!!!!!!!!!!!!

ml trans.
 

yeah, that;s exactly what mine did- had to replace the entire shifter- same can codes and symptoms- runs great now- cost about 750

No shift is a communication problem.
If the prndl is not lighting up,
replace the Electronic Shift Module
(ESM), which is part of the shifter assembly.

They get drinks spilt on them...you could remove the whole shifter assembly and soak/rinse the ecm in distilled water and contact cleaner....this has resurrected a couple of shifter ecm problems this way in my shop.... it depends how much your time is worth.

Would suggest you contact a Mercedes specialist used parts company maybe..

http://www.usedpartslive.com/live/1/year/MERCEDES-BENZ/






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oh yeah, i forgot to mention when the mechanic put the shifter back together the radio died! wonder if this is a CAN problem? i was just glad to get the thing out of first gear....

this whole thing started when my battery died. guessing some jump starts caused an electrical freakout or something

tranny gone crazy
 

The same thing happened to me, you need to the truck to a MB dealer and get them to run a Star Diagnostic, they will diagnose the problem. Your transmission sensors need to be reset or the tranny will operate in limp mode with a bunch of lights going on and off in the instrument cluster.

So Burgfu.... DID you ever fix it ? ?
 

I read so many questions..
and so few answers.

Never ever charge the vehicle battery whilst still connected to the vehicle.
You will destroy modules and at the least, lose all adaption anyway, that needs setting back to factory ..need a scan tool or run the veh' to MB.



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Charging
 

that doesnt make since to me. I have read dangers of jumping..but your Mercedes battery charges everytime you drive it.

UPDATE: I am not sure what they mean by normal charger. I use a trikle charger.

If a normal or rapid charger is used to charge battery, the battery must be disconnected and removed from the vehicle in order to avoid damaging paint and upholstery.
Do not quick-charge the battery (for boost starting) for longer than one minute. Wait at least one minute before boosting the battery a second time.
Connect and disconnect a battery charger only with the battery charger switched off.
Sealed or "maintenance free" batteries should be slow-charged only, at an amperage rate that is approximately 10% of the battery's ampere-hour (Ah) rating.
Do not allow battery charging voltage to exceed 16.5 volts. If the battery begins producing gas or boiling violently, reduce the charging rate. Boosting a sulfated battery at a high charging rate can cause an explosion.

It is the shunt the electronics don't like. Connecting and disconnecting, plus many chargers don't supply a clean 12volts.

If you are going to boost charge a battery and cannot remove it from the vehicle, then you must load the electrical system by turning on the headlamps etc.

Any charging of the battery that mimics the in-vehicle charging load is aceptable....I disagree about comments on 10% charge loads...this is only applicable if the battery is being slowly recharged to 12.68vdc over some time.





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Update
 

As of todays date the ML 320 is still not fixed, it has been at the MB dealer for about 6 weeks, they are unable to figure it out, so, if worst comes to worst, I will strip it for parts, sad, but so far no one can repair it, and MB has had a tech from out of state looking at it.

Hi, I apologize for resurrecting such an old thread but it matches my symptoms precisely. The only difference is that I don't always go into limp mode, in fact its only done that once. I pull over and turn off the ignition and restart and it runs fine until the next time.
btw, making an appointment with my indie to read the codes, so I don't know if my problem matches precisely..

I originally suspected a weak battery but I've recently replaced it and then it happened again! So what was the final resolution to your problem, last post reads MB tech is looking at your issue?