BAS/ESP and ETS light on.
 

hello,

While driving in town the BAS/ESP and ETS light came on. I restarted the car and the lights would go off. But would come on again after driving it for a while.

I search the web. And there is a procedure to turn the stearing wheel lock to lock to reset the stearing wheel sensor. I did that and the light seem to come on more often. BUT I am not clear what the exact procedure is to reset the stearing wheel sensor. Do you do it when the car is in park or in gear? Can you be roling the car when doing this? And do you need to turn the car off and turn the key to the aux mode for 5 minutes (but not starting the car). But I think I did all these aleady except the 5 minutes.

I also got a new mercedes battery so I don't think low voltage is an issue.

the only other thing I can think of is that I can tranny oil recently.

Any other suggestions.

Does your cruise work? Sounds like it may be the brake light switch.

The cruise controld does not work only when...
 

Break switch you are talking about that plastic switch switch near the manual (feet) break??

My cruise control does not work only when the ESP and ETS light comes on. If they are off when I have reset the light by the restarting the car the cruise control works.

Do you folks think it is the break switch. Because it seem the ESP and ETS light comes on often when I am on slick ground like on icy gorund this weekend at tohoe.

Is there anyway I can test to see if it is the switch? It will take me 5 minutes to take the switch out.

Replace the switch, sounds like that is the problem. Cheap and easy fix.

If the ESP light is on (because the wheels are slipping on ice) the cruise control is DESIGNED to not work. Once the ESP light is off, the cruise control should be able to be manually reengaged.

Just to clearfy we are talking about the .....
 

Just to clearfy we are replacing the car break switch and NOT the Parking break switch.

thanks

just want to give everyone a report on replacing the break switch.
 

Replaced switch report.

I replaced the switch. Got the part a MB dealer. The said the part is a common problem less than $20.

I was able to get to the switch but unscrewing 4 screws. 2 big plastic screw and 2 regular screw to drop the pannel just above the breaks. Very easy.

I was able to access the switch without disconnecting any wires.

Something worth noting. The new switch has a longer strock then the old one. At first I though the dealer give me the wrong part. However the switch could be inserted by depressing the breaks (the breaks have to be depress while the switch is install).

Also with noting if you want to check the break light the keys have to be in. It scared me when I tested the breaks with out the keys and there was not lights.

My fingers are cross 500 miles with out the ets/esp lights comming on.

proof this site and you folks same me money so I can have the cars I can't really afford. ;).

Now I have heater light problem but that is a different thread.

Brake switch tip
 

I know this is an old thread but thought this is a good place for this info, especially when there is a comment about plunger being longer or shorter on a new switch when compared to the old:

https://youtu.be/z16YtVoJUxQ