ML Instrument Lights and Brakes

[Lewis]

Gilly,
1. A few easy ones for you, I hope. I'm at 52K miles on my original rear ML320 ('99) brake pads, but I'm starting to build up the lip around the outside of the rotors. If I end up with sufficient rotor thickness (???) when my pads are finished out, can I slip in new pads or does this lip mean I'll also need new rotors at this point? I'm on my second set of pads up front and was already counting on needing to replace those rotors, but I thought I'd also be able to get 2 sets of pad wear on the rear rotors.

2. How much time do I have left, just ballpark, if the brake pad wear indicator lights up on my dash? Not that I plan on getting to that, but are we talking about 50 Miles (like a space-saver spare) or 1000 or so miles with a few weeks to sched an appointment before the grinding strarts? The owners manual doesn't help much.

3. How is the instrument cluster removed? 2 of 3 of the backlit digital readouts are burned and I wanted to relamp before the last one goes. Also how do you get to the bulbs for the AC/Heater controls, those are gone to.

Thanks for the help,

[Gilly]

The minimum service spec on your rear rotors I believe is 13.5 mm, at least it is on the 320. If you are above the service spec you can just replace the pads, bed them in and you are good to go.
The distance remaining when you hit the pad sensors is a subjective thing, depends on if it is city or highway driving or both. It is not a "pull over and stop" warning, I would say usually closer to a few thousand miles rather than a few hundred, but again it will vary. You are "supposed" to make an appointment to get it looked at when the warning comes on.
On the cluster, you remove the 2 panels on each side of the steering column, then the piece between the top of the steering column and cluster. Next you will see a tab underneath the cluster bezel, pull out on the tabs and down on the cluster bezel and the bezel will come off, sliding downwards. You will then see a screw on each side of the cluster, and a pair of plastic fasteners at the top, one on each side of center. Remove all these and the cluster will come out.
I haven't had a problem with the climate control lights on the ML yet, not sure right now to tell you how to do this.

Gilly

[Lewis]

Gilly, great info as usual. Thanks for the help. Lewis

[tabo]

I replaced all 4 of my rotars at 70K if that helps you.. I'm a pretty aggressive driver I guess! the minimum thickness of the rotars are actually stamped onto the disc.. (on all cars as well)
it is easy to replace also.. just remove the brake caliper and than a hex screw holding the rotar down.. Gilly you think if the ml320 had drum brakes would the stopping power be better? I really dislike my ml's braking power =/

[Gilly]

In general disc brakes stop better because for a given application, the disc will have more contact area than the drum. Of course you could try shoving a HUGE drum system onto the truck until you exceed the area of the disc you are using, but not fair comparison though.
The spec you need to know for servicing the brakes is the service spec, not the minimum spec. If the pads are replaced and the rotors are below the service spec, it means the rotors will go below minimum spec before the pads are worn out. Service spec is generally .5 or .6 mm thicker than the minimum spec and is found in the maintenance manual or WIS.

Gilly

[tabo]

Yes.. the I've seen the 4 runner (huge rear disc brakes) and also the cr-v's (small rear disc brakes) what a difference in size! but still those two cars braking power is better than the mls definitely...

[Gilly]

but still those two cars braking power is better than the mls definitely...

What do you base this comment on? Do you have the stopping distance info on all 3 of these vehicles? Isn't the CR-V quite a bit lighter than an ML? It should stop shorter if it is lighter, all else being equal.
MB's have terrific brakes if maintained properly, best in the industry.

Gilly

[tabo]

I drive lots of different cars.. lots of modified ones as well.. currently we have a suburu wrx rally car at my shop... I didn't base my comparison via stats.. just my own opinion.... I just like sensitive brakes more.. I feel more safe btw.. what do you mean by maintaining the brakes? I change my brakes only when the brake light light is on.. and changing the brake fluid... and what else can you change? aren't the brakes self adjusting? like is there valves controlling the brake fluid cables or brake pedal adjustments??

[Gilly]

I look at brake statistics the same way you would look at any other performance statistics. The only fair comparison is the stopping distance, just as you would lok at horsepower or torque specs, or 0 to 60 times.
If you can find a pad that offers a shorter stopping distance, that's great. In general what I mean by properly maintaining the brakes is using the OEM pads, rotors, and brake fluid. The problem is using non-OEM components which degrade the stopping performance, although may cause less brake dust on the wheels.

Gilly

[Lebenz]

Gilly,

My observation about the ML is the amount of travel that the brake pedal has seems excessive. I would love it if the ML’s brake pedal felt the same as the one in my 400E, as example. I think the amount of travel is what most folks criticize because a lot of pedal travel creates the perception that the ML feels as if the brakes aren’t very good.

I have exercised the ML's brakes on a number of occasions and know that the ML brakes, even on my wimpy ML 320 work very well -- who ee -- especially when BAS triggers.......!

Anyway, do you have any suggestions on what might be done to reduce the amount pedal travel?

TIA

[Lewis]

Good news for those like me who need to replace the instrument lights for their climate controls. After replacing by climate control filter and poking around behind and under the dash looking for light bulb plugs in the back of the climate control module, I gave up and put the footwell cover back on not wanting to tear into a dash disassembly. Somewhat ticked off at this point, I yanked the control knobs off the front just out of spite to see if I could see anything at all extra from that direction. The instrument bulb (a single 1.2W bulb for all 3 dials, $2) is peeking out of a hole just below the center dial operating rod. Pull it out with a pair of needle nose pliers and pop the new one in, 5 minutes and you're done. May be a little different on the 2000 and newer with the thermostat type controls, probably not much.:p

[tabo]

are you referring to the dust filter beneath the glove box? on the passenger side?

[Lewis]

Tabo, that's the one. Takes about 10-15 minutes to replace or remove and vacuum.