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Old 04-13-2003, 01:42 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: So. Cal. USA
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Changing fuel filter - 2000 ML 430

It's time to change my fuel filter.

I heard it is under the rear seat.

Has anyone changed it themselves and can give a few pointers on how to do this?

Thanks

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Old 04-14-2003, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
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Fuel Filter

Fuel Filter Replacement

Jack up left rear wheel, remove wheel and inner plastic fender.
Filter is on top of chassis just forward of brakes and held by a stainless clamp.
Caution - There are 2 filter sizes. Due to the small space on the ML, the smaller one is correct.
Place large container below chassis to catch gas when the lines are removed.
There are 4 lines. The main one from the tank(right) is a dual release fitting.
The back and left fittings are single press release.
The front(small) fitting is a stainless snap-off one.
Install new filter in reverse order.

My question is - Do you know what the steps are, to remove the coil pak and spark plug wires?

Regards,
Vern Lowe
velowe@hotmail.com
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Old 04-15-2003, 01:11 AM
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Sparkplug wires and coil pak?

As far as I know, the plugs and wires aren't changed until 100K. What is a coil pac?
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Old 04-19-2003, 08:57 AM
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Coil Pac fires the plugs and is attached to the ends of the plug wires. I have 145,000 km on my '98ML320.

Regards,
Vern
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Old 04-19-2003, 10:07 AM
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Location: Evansville WI
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Vern: You should start your own thread about the spark plug wires and coils.

Bayer:
There are 2 different filter sizes, an "old" short version and the "new" long version. As far as I know, you can't buy the short filter anymore, at least from MB. To install the long filter the left side of the rear seat is removed, the carpet pulled up, and a steel plate is removed, usually by using a hot air gun to soften the sealing compound. This is the same procedure used to replace the fuel pump/fuel sender assembly in the fuel tank. You need to do this because there are different lines that need to be used with the long filter, and you can't get to the lines that connect to the pump without having access from the top, through this hole in the floor.
Once you have access through this hole, you do the same thing Vern said to do, but also install these new lines so it all fits. The ends of the lines have strange locking clips, they can be hard to disconnect without the MB release tool, although when removing the old lines, you don't reuse them anyways, so if they get wrecked it's no big deal, just don't damage the nipples on the fuel pump.

Gilly

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