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Question to the Audio guys here
I am really torn...
On one hand I have an original, working, really nice Becker Europa that came with my 300D that I took out. It lights up, works, sounds nice... On the other hand, I have the current Alpine tilt face unit with MP3/WMA/Xm capability and a remote control. Herein lies the issue: Is there any way for me to wire in both radios on a switch (the new one in glove box, and the old one in the normal position)? This old Becker looks awesome and works really well, but doesn't have the modern features that I have grown to love on the Alpine. Any suggestions on how to have the best of both worlds? If not, at least a way to have the Becker lit up and looking nice while the alpine plays the music? |
mount the alpine in the glove compartment.. its remote controlled you say.. perhaps you could rewire the sensor for the reciever so you can use it with the door closed, leave the becker in place as a showpiece.. etc ..
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Well, you can do this....
Mount that alpine in the glovebox, and splice it into the wiring on the back of the stereo so that you have power, ground, and power antenna. Then go to best buy or radio shack, and buy a speaker selector and wire your speaker up through that. That should give you the option to use either stereo. |
it will certainly be a task, but doable indeed. I have a cd changer in my glove box so i know u can connect the wires together. just lengthen the wires and reroute them to the glove box.
another thought. i don't know if this is too much work. people have done this before but it is labor intensive. u can relocated the "face" part of the alpine, and relocate it to another part in the car which u can see and use your remote without opening the glove box. i have see people route the cable along the windshield and put the face in the sun visor before. |
Quote:
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*** One or the Other? ***
Kyle:
#1.) Decide if you want to have a "switchbox" or similiar item, nearby the driver's position and whether or not you'd be able to hide it "discretely" and its associated wiring... #2.) "Remote" all wiring, from each "head unit" (and the speakers) to the panel and terminate each wire on its own position on its own "component" barrier strip. REMEMBER TO LABEL EACH AND EVERY WIRE AS TO WHERE IT CAME FROM, WHAT ITS PURPOSE IS AND WHETHER YOU WILL NEED IT IN THE PROJECT... #3.) Using mini-relays (rated appropriately for the circuit under control...) wire each respective circuit wire to the correct contact of the appropriate relay(s), remembering that the "wiper" contact needs to return to the "final" O/P of the circuit being driven/controlled by whichever device you want to have on-line at the time. NOTE: Before you even start with STEP #1, you should, seriously, sit down and diagram (schematics) EVERYTHING before you start any wiring. When you do wire something, make absolutely sure that the ciruit you made is doing its intended task (i.e.: O/P of each "head unit" is driving a set of speakers/power is connected ONLY to the Power I/P of each "head unit" antenna controller is acually heading to the antenna remote sense line)...nothing like driving a nice set of 200-Watt, Upteen-hundred dollars speakers with 5 Amps of 12 Volts DC to set your afternoon on fire! :eek: :eek: :eek: It sounds like a "neat" project - I'd say about 2 afternoons (Preferably in an air-conditioned garage!!!) of about 5 hours each, just for the wiring alone and about 4 hours making up the panel, depending on where you're going to stick it and its related components...all in all, about 4 good days of straight work. Good Luck! Hopefully, it won't drive you to drink! ;) |
take the speaker outs from the becker, run them through a DI box into the Alpines audio IN.
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Hmm
DI box? What is a DI box?
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Bump
DI Box?
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I think he means a High-Low convertor. Takes speaker level outputs, and converts them to RCAs.
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