Nissan Quest - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

peragro · #1 08-17-2006, 09:13 PM

Anyone own a Nissan Quest? We just bought a 2000 model. Have to do the CV joints at some point. Wondering if anyone has any experience with those. I think they're the same as a Mercury Villager of the same year.

davestlouis · #2 08-17-2006, 10:28 PM

Had a 97 Villager...smaller than most minivans, weak acceleration, but unlike the Windstar that went before it, the Villager actually started and ran every day...went great until 75xxx miles or so, when the rear wiper motor died, fuel pump died, digital dash cluster died, driver's seat motor died, all within 5k miles of each other. I took that as a sign from above that the car needed to go bye-bye.

wbain5280 · #3 08-18-2006, 12:24 AM

My G/F has a Quest. I recently replaced both drive axles myself. It's really not that hard once you get your head wrapped around FWD. Use a helper to assist you.

If you do it yourself, to replace the drivers side, remove the outer bolt, brake caliper and rotor, unbolt the ball joint from the lower control arm, three bolts, use a puller to remove the axle from the hub, pry the old one out of the transaxle with a small prybar and insert the new one into the transaxle. Use some ATF on the shaft. Once in, compress the shaft and use a rubber mallet to drive it in. There is a circlip that has to seat in a grove inside the transaxle. The other side, longer, isn't too hard but the exhaust pipe is in the way so use some u-joints for the three bolts.

Check the brakes and the glide pins and relube if necessary.

IIRC, you will need a 36MM socket for the nut on at the hub, and a large cotter pin.

If the CV joints are good, i.e. not clicking on turns, replace just the boots but have this donw at the dealer or service center because of the really special tool needed.

I'm pretty impressed with the build quality of the van.

Watch the drivers window because the cable that makes the window silide up and down can stretch and not spool properly and the window can get stuck. You can take the mechanism out and replace it, like we did for about $100, or unwind the cable and fix it, which I didn't.

peragro · #4 08-18-2006, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbain5280

My G/F has a Quest. I recently replaced both drive axles myself. It's really not that hard once you get your head wrapped around FWD. Use a helper to assist you.

If you do it yourself, to replace the drivers side, remove the outer bolt, brake caliper and rotor, unbolt the ball joint from the lower control arm, three bolts, use a puller to remove the axle from the hub, pry the old one out of the transaxle with a small prybar and insert the new one into the transaxle. Use some ATF on the shaft. Once in, compress the shaft and use a rubber mallet to drive it in. There is a circlip that has to seat in a grove inside the transaxle. The other side, longer, isn't too hard but the exhaust pipe is in the way so use some u-joints for the three bolts.

Check the brakes and the glide pins and relube if necessary.

IIRC, you will need a 36MM socket for the nut on at the hub, and a large cotter pin.

If the CV joints are good, i.e. not clicking on turns, replace just the boots but have this donw at the dealer or service center because of the really special tool needed.

I'm pretty impressed with the build quality of the van.

Watch the drivers window because the cable that makes the window silide up and down can stretch and not spool properly and the window can get stuck. You can take the mechanism out and replace it, like we did for about $100, or unwind the cable and fix it, which I didn't.

Thanks Warren, that's exactly the advice I was hoping to get. This forum rocks (much better than any Quest forum I've been able to find, too)