howdy,
i am trying to find some quotes for this job from a contractor. i want a wood-burning stove installed in my living room. there is no stove there now and no chimney so i will need everyhting (except the stove which i have). stove is a decent, newer one (englander brand), and i'm waiting for some quotes. i just figured i would get some "edumacated guesses" here in the meantime.
thanks,
gregg
also, opinions on the stove brand are welcome, too!

__________________
0o==o0

James 4:8

"...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses"
-Saint Gregory Palamas, ---Discourse on the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord God and Savior Jesus Christ


Centrally located in North East Central Pa.

The chimney price will keep you warm until winter. The stove is ususally 25% of the investment.

How many stories is the house?
The cost will depend a lot on where/what the chimney goes/through. Outside is cheapest I think, but worst for draft/creasote. Prolly lookin at class A double wall chimney.
Rough guesstimate... $2,000-4,000.
I here Englander's are fine stoves... made in VA... no frills good heaters.

Good info available here: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14

Not sure about code in your area, but you could be looking at substantial modifications for adding a wood-burning anything to an existing home. Hearth space, chimney reinforcement, ventilation, etc.

I'm looking into installing a wood insert into my existing wood-burning fireplace. I really like the Jotul inserts and stoves. Cast iron with good build quality. Not cheap, but they really stood out against some of the other brands I looked at (Napolean, Kozi).

http://www.jotul.com/

__________________
Chris
2007 E550 4Matic - 61,000 Km - Iridium Silver, black leather, Sport package, Premium 2 package
2007 GL450 4Matic - 62,000 Km - Obsidian Black Metallic, black leather, all options
1998 E430 - sold
1989 300E - 333,000 Km - sold
1977 280E - sold
1971 250 - retired

"And a frign hat. They gave me a hat at the annual benefits meeting. I said. how does this benefit me. I dont have anything from the company.. So they gave me a hat." - TheDon

that's what i was afraid of! i have a friend/contractor coming out on the weekend to look at the job. i will need to build a hearth area and protect the combustible walls, but i'll do that. i just want the chimney done correctly and i can put the stove in. looks like the chimney will be major$$$$$

__________________
0o==o0

James 4:8

"...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses"
-Saint Gregory Palamas, ---Discourse on the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord God and Savior Jesus Christ


Centrally located in North East Central Pa.

Yes. The double walled stainless "chimney" is going to cost you. Now. Here's where it's a great thing that you posted here...

When I was getting quotes to get a Vermont Castings the "installer" wanted FIVE times the price per length of the same exact stuff they had at Home Depot. So if he's a "friend" have the two of you go to the Home Depot, buy what you need, and then make sure you take care of him fair. The materials are NOT expensive. These guys make most of their money from the "fear factor" of having "fire" in the house... so they think they can charge you a lot. The most important thing is to make sure the run has as few turns as possible and is as short as possible. Remember the 10' rule, and make sure that when it passes through walls, floors, and roofs that the proper specifications are kept.

The hearth area isn't too big a deal, just remember to make sure and use 1/2" Durock under any tile that is with a certain distance of the stove... all the code, etc. is on the net... and your area may be unique.

Right now I'm looking at doing it in the Spring, my situation is that I REALLY do NOT want to go through the roof, I want to elbow 90* and go up the outside wall... the roof above is a walk-out deck and it'll look like hell... but I'm being told that the stove will work MUCH better if it is a line-shot straight up.

So I'm looking into alternatives.

Good luck.

Pete

You could always put a wood burning stove in a 140:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=SCn-1oy7ABs

I will one up Gotta suggestion and say get a metalbestos chimney, the chimney is almost always where trouble starts so don't go cheap and have it inspected because if you have a fire that will be the first thing you insurance sompany will look for.

expect a 10% increase for a woodstove on insurance rates.

MM,

Thanks for the tip!

http://www.dukefire.com/metalbestos124.htm

Pete

I know I'll be flamed (heh) but what about a ventless gas unit? They even come with a remote. What the heck its the 21st century, right? Why deal with logs and ashes.

__________________
1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma

When I first was doing woodstoves back in the late '70s, real good flue pipe was over $2 an inch! Be sure to use all stainless pipe. I like the insulated pipe like the metalbestos stuff. I see the price has gone up a bit ($7 per inch-ouch). Still, anything but stainless will rust out faster than an old Fiat. At these prices, I would really shop around for awhile for price. If you are going any real height, it gets so painful brick starts to look good.

flamed-that's funny i was just on lowes and home depot looking at them! thing is i already have the wood stove, but i'm thinking of selling it and going with gas or propane. any thoughts on these?
thanks,
gregg

__________________
0o==o0

James 4:8

"...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses"
-Saint Gregory Palamas, ---Discourse on the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord God and Savior Jesus Christ


Centrally located in North East Central Pa.

I would avoid ventless... with a vent you have more room to have a problem with combustion and not die. You don't need much chimney for gas (read: a lot less expensive) There are a lot of real nice gas stoves out there.

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14

I have a gas fireplace already. It's called my furnace.

Chopping wood is good for you.

Code takes the fun out of everything. I installed a pot-bellied stove in a guest house on me dad's farm once. It was a corner install and I ripped up the 3/4" pine floors and put down some fireproof mesh (like fire hose, actually) that I had and arkansas flagstone on the floor and walls, about 25'sq. on three sides. I had one 120 angle going from the back of the stove then a through-wall flange kit for the back wall of the house and obviously then a 90 degree elbow. I then just ran stovepipe up the side of the house and used another through-wall flange kit through the eve of the house, four feet above the roofline and capped it off. Cost about $300 total and haven't had a fire since I did it in 1991 If I had it to do over again, I would have gone up a couple of more feet with the damper part of the pipe coming out of the back of the stove, because it does tend to back the stove up (smoke) pretty severely with the slightest adjustment.

Sorry this wasn't really helpful, but I was pretty proud of that job when I finished it, since I lived there with my g/f one winter and had promised heat