This is a serious question, not a "how many ___s does it take" joke. I don't know how to research it.

The floodlight bulbs in my ceiling - 2-1/2 stories up - are being changed when we paint. They had not been changed once in the 20 years the house has been up, because they were up too high. The painters will be using ladders - not scaffolding.
Yesterday I tried to replace 2 bulbs of the same generation (but not as high), and both pulled off, leaving the metal base in the socket. Meaning, the highhat had to be dissassembled to remove the remainder of the bulb.

This was an OK job on a small stepladder, but not one I want to do 25 feet up on a ladder.

Any suggestions on making sure the bulbs screw off intact?

Be careful. If it does break you can cut a potato in half and push it onto the broken base and twist it out. This will work on one of those poles too.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

No guarantees with taking the old bulbs out - but when re-installing, smear a bit of petroleum jelly on the threads and when you need to change the bulbs in 2027, they should come out without protest.

Or use nose oil. You always have it with you.

Don't know where I heard this, but somewhere I learned to rub the bulb's threads across the bridge of your nose before installing a bulb. The oil in your skin lubricates them. I do it subconciously now and it still cracks my wife up EVERY time she sees me do it. Better check a mirror when you're done. Some bulbs leave dark lines on my nose.

__________________


Behind every great man is a great woman. Behind every great woman is a great behind.

I have always used plyers when they break off....never had to disassemble a fixture yet....and some penetratin oil....turn off the circuit first.

I like the potatoe idea, never heard that one before. I suggest buying 130 v bulbs and oversizing them and using a dimmer to promote long life. If you seldom use them this will not be worth doing.

Tom W

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I never cease to be amazed at the things I learn here.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

I've heard of using a potato, but I didn't think that was an option here as they twisted off cleanly - no jagged pieces and nothing sticking up.

I think I'll try a little squirt of penetrating oil for the future. I suppose it can't hurt.

For the replacements, I like the 130V idea, with a dimmer. That makes a lot of sense.

Thanks all.

I just did a search and found this link. I like the broom handle idea too.

http://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Stuck-Lightbulb

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

I usually use needle-nose pliers and grab and slightly twist a portion of the lip of the bulb's metal base. That area usually allows enough purchase to use the pliers to rotate the socket out of the receptacle.

Note: Um, first make sure that the power is turned off. Here's a man who overlooked that fine point:

Don't change them. If you do they will just burn out again.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Another vote for the Potato.

The 130V bulbs are a good choice for longevity. They don't need a dimmer for long life, as the filaments are already too heavy for the applied voltage and the light output is reduced.

I've only seen these bulbs in the standard size..........not the typical floodlight that is common in ceiling high hat fixtures.

I'll vote for dimmers, I have them on most of my Incandescent type bulbs.
Since they ramp up and down, the death rate is almost zero.
As compared to one area with a regular switch that goes through them constantly.

NOTE if you get the new CFs, you cannot (generally) use dimmers.

They do now make CFs that look like floods.
When they first come on, they are dim, give them 5 minutes, and the are as bright as regulars, and I like the color better. Supposedly they last much longer than regular bulbs.

Removing the old one, I like Needle nose, DO TURN OFF POWER.
I use a little silicon spray on the base generally.

__________________
KLK, MCSE

1990 500SL

I was always taught to respect my elders.
I don't have to respect too many people anymore.

I am not sure that is a good idea. It might burn off from the heat. The silicone sounds more promising. Maybe a LITTLE never seize?

__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

Why not use some dielectric grease? A super fine coating ought to do.

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D