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  #1  
Old 05-27-2008, 12:10 AM
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Fastest way to dry silicone calk

Well, I've gotten sick of the leaky, noisy, and crappy hardtop on my tracker. It's an aftermarket one, and I think the P/O got it 2nd (or 3rd...) hand. I wanted to fix the leak, so, I took the hardtop off, and there is NO gasket between the body and the top. The tiny 1/8" rubber foam gasket on the top was just pressed OVER the soft top brackets, and really didnt seal anything. No wonder it leaked...


Anyways, I couldnt find a gasket to fit, and got the brillient idea to use silicone calking to make a custom, permenent (since I dont have a soft top) gasket. I smoothed it out real nice too, and plan on spraying it lightly with factory match paint (mabey if I feel like it...)

I now have a 1 1/4" x 3/4" bead of calk running along the gasket line on my tracker, and I need to be at school in 11 hours (10am local)

What's the fastest way to get it to dry? Right now it's in about 45 degrees out, going up to 55 degres before 10am... I've got a fan blowing on it, and that's it.

Any ideas?

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  #2  
Old 05-27-2008, 01:34 AM
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In 12 hours it should be filmed over pretty good, most dry in 24. Just put some masking tape over it before you go to school, but in 12 hours it should be hard enough.


In the marine world we would dunk the boat, they cure faster underwater. Well also that and a lot of marine sealants take 7 days to fully cure.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:57 AM
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you should have used butyl because the silicon holds moisture and will cause rust down the road.
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  #4  
Old 05-27-2008, 10:36 AM
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24 hours to cure and silicone will never take paint. Should have used a polyurethane like 3M 4200 or Sikaflex. They are the ones that cure from moisture. That and the top will never come off again. If you want a good seal with removal in future a possibility then use 3M 101. Butyl tape would have worked well also. RT
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:07 PM
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If it keeps running for another two years I'd be happy... It's got some issues that I can hear (now that I fixed the exhaust...)

spend $20 and 5 hours of work to fix the oil pan gasket leak, spend $30 and 2 hours of work to fix the exhaust, and then realize you've got a lifter tick (if I'm lucky)... Ugh O well


It's still not dry, so I just cleaned everything of value out, and lock the face plate in the glovebox when not in use.

It's got an OK skin, but it's very very soft still.

I'm leaving it outside in the sun, will that help or hurt anything?
tks
~Nate
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  #6  
Old 05-27-2008, 12:11 PM
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the top is off, and the silicone said it was paintable...

~Nate
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  #7  
Old 05-27-2008, 06:26 PM
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Spray some aerosol glass cleaner on it. It'll dry to the touch faster. Mostly though, you're just going to have to wait 24hrs for it to be fully dry.
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:27 PM
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Nate:

The silicone SEALANT won't paint - and it "dries" about the same as the caulking does, lower than 70°? REALLY SLOW, almost exponentially slower the lower the temperature...

I've used the stuff below 40° and it would still be tacky 3 days later...

Any way you can get the heat up to, or better than 70° is the best.

Now, as for the caulking...it may be paintable, but remember that it's flexible too. So your choice for paint must be the same...and you may still have to prime it...

If possible, limit the amount of caulking that will need to be painted - that will probably be the best all around decision you'll be able to make on this project...

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