Get some no. 9 wire, we used to use it in scaffolding work. Loop it from the exhaust manifold to the side of the pallet a couple of times on each side of the engine. Put a stick of steel bar between the loop and wind it up until it is tight. Tie the end of the rod to the pallet so it doesn't unwind. Do this on both sides and you should be good to go.

I have bailing wire at work I can probably use.

the manifolds are not on the car but the engine does have brackets with loops for easy removal..

I wouldn't worry about cutting the pallet down, check with the carrier but many start their rates based on a 40x48 and work up from there.

Do you have any 2x's or 4x's you could use? Build a couple of stringers tall enough to keep the engine an inch or so off the pallet on lag bolt or though bolt the whole thing to the pallet. If the top surface of the pallet isn't strong enough or slatted, it's worth covering it with plywood to start. I'd definitely bolt everything down to the pallet.

While most of our shipping is pallets of bagged stuff, we do ship packaging equipment and bolt them to the pallet first, then build a simple frame with scrap 2x3 or 2x4 and screw plywood to the top and sides of the frame. Tust me, if there is any way for the carrier to deny a claim they will find it. Since you're dealing with a relatively rare item I'd go the extra mile to make sure it gets there in the same condition it leaves in.

well its on the pallet, wired down to the pallet as well. I put some 2x6's across the pallet so it had something to sit on. I'm shipping through roadway with a 3rd party paying the bill( the dude thats getting the engine is paying the third party mainly due to the third party has a big discount with road way)....

so.. which Bill of lading do I use???

If it's getting shipped from you (Shipper) to the engine guy (Consignee) just use any Bill of Lading, filling in that Shipper and Consignee info, and send it "Collect" (most Bills of Lading will, by default, make the shipping Collect unless you mark it "To Be Prepaid"-if you've got one in front of you read it carefully to make sure). Then in the middle of the BOL, after your piece count, description and weight put:

Shipping Bill To: or Third Party Bill To: (I've had some arrive Payer for Shipper:)
And the name and billing info. of the 3rd party

A lot of trucking companies will allow you to fill in a .pdf BOL off their website where you can enter all of that info and print them out.

Don't do any of that crap--works for suckers:D. Split and prepay the shipping bill (his will be more) with the rebuild guy. Get him to ship first. Unload your new engine, and strap the core onto the same pallet, back on the same truck. Reg. shipping is going to cost you......$175 ish, so what's $50 extra?

I was about to do that until I found a co. that had free shipping to beat my previous quote.

pic's
 

Click to see these pictures Joe.

http://www.mbcoupes.com/memberscars/T/satishtummala/page5.htm

Or that. :D

my engine wont be coming until I have the 4k for it so its being built, slowly and will probably be here by spring. The guy building it comes down to FL once or twice a year. He's coming down in November and will be bringing my frame section with unless I need it sooner. I wouldn't be doining this if the guy wasn't known as a very reputable guy on the forum and a great engine builder for the PRV. I'm not paying a thing to ship the engine at all. My guy pretty much tried to get as many dead PRV's so he can use them to rebuild. He will give me a credit towards the new engine as well.. So I'm pretty much set.

Usual price for shipping this engine on a 36x36 skid through roadway through John Hervey of Specialtauto.com is around 150-160.. so I think thats fair as well...