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  #1  
Old 10-06-2008, 10:19 PM
Johnhef's Avatar
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Used ATF for heating oil

Anyone have any good input on this? I'm not going to burn it in the car, but if I can cut down the cost of heating oil this year, I'm all for it. I have a pretty much endless supply and would just about be able to burn nothing but that over the entire winter.

basically, I'd like to set up a seperate tank- I have a 55gallon drum and am thinking I'd basically set it up like the heating oil tank is- a line out the bottom and into a filter- but thats the extent of my knowledge. I dont want to mix it in my main tank, because if something were to happen, thats a lot harder to clean out!

I'm just gathering ideas for now but winter is fast approaching so if I can make this work, I'd like to do it.

First off, how does my furnace burn the fuel? would the ATF even burn?

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
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past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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  #2  
Old 10-06-2008, 10:22 PM
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I think you need a special waste oil furnace to burn it, and they are not available for residential use. Pricey as well

OR

If you want to tinker (and who doesn't?)

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wastewatts/
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  #3  
Old 10-06-2008, 10:32 PM
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I think it would burn well mixed with the regular home heating oil. The burners in those furnaces are pretty cool they have a high pressure positive displacement pump, a big transformer for an igniter and a high pressure nozzle for atomization.
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  #4  
Old 10-06-2008, 11:14 PM
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Is it a furnace or a boiler?
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2008, 07:58 AM
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Trans fluid burns awfully hot.
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  #6  
Old 10-07-2008, 08:12 AM
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I think that as long as you filtered all of the crap out of it that you could blend it with HHO. Start with a 90 HHO/10 ATF blend and gradually increase the ATF until you start gumming up the nozzle. Then if you want to go further play around with nozzles and compressors.

Here's a piece from UConn on waste oil (and bioheat) heat targeting greenhouse growers. It doesn't get into specifics but does give a good idea of what would be involved if your looking to burn higher percentages of ATF (or motor oil).

Heating with Bioheat and Waste Oil
John W. Bartok, Jr., Extension Professor Emeritus
NRME Dept.,University of Connecticut, Storrs CT 06269-4087



Increasing interest in alternate fuels has lead to development of heating equipment that will utilize fuels other than the conventional oil and gas. Biodiesel is one that can be produced in large enough quantities that it has an impact on total consumption in the U.S. Waste oils from vehicles, machinery and cooking are others that have high heat value and can fit into many greenhouse operations.


Bioheat
Biodiesel is an alternative fuel produced from vegetable oils and animal fats. Soybean oil is the most common feedstock but other sources, such as, rape seed (canola), mustard seed, corn oil, coconut oil, sunflower seed, recycled cooking oil and rendered animal fats can be used. Biodiesel is made by reacting a wood or grain alcohol, such as methanol or ethanol, with the feedstock and with the help of a sodium hydroxide catalyst the reaction produces biodiesel and glycerin.

To have production consistency, the American Society of Testing Materials has established quality standards. Pure biodiesel is designated B100. It has a heat value of 118,170 Btu/gal, about 8% less than No. 2 diesel. This is due to about 10% less carbon.

For use as a fuel in the transportation industry, a blend of 20% biodiesel to 80% petrodiesel (B20) is fairly standard. For use as a heating fuel a blend of 2 to 20% biodiesel with No. 2 fuel oil is acceptable in most existing heating systems without any modification. This is referred to as bioheat.

Many fuel oil dealers across the U.S can now supply a bioheat blend of up to 20%. There are several reasons for not going higher than 20% at this time. Biodiesel has a higher viscosity than fuel oil. This means that its pour point (the temperature below which the fuel will not flow) is higher. The pour point for No. 2 fuel oil is -11ºF and for B20, 0ºF. In cold climates, bioheat fuel needs to be stored inside a building.

Biodiesel is also a solvent. This can present some problems in an existing heating system until all the sludge is removed from the tank and supply lines. The filter may have to be changed several times until everything is cleaned up. Once the system is clean, the burner will probably be more efficient. When ratios of greater than 30% are used, the rubber seals in the fuel pump can break down causing leaks. Manufacturers are now incorporating better seals in new pumps to overcome this.


Bioheat is Environment Friendly
Although bioheat fuel is generally 5 to 10% more expensive than No.2 fuel oil depending on the blend ratio, it is cleaner burning, biodegradable and reduces hydro and particulate emissions. Research at nationally recognized testing agencies have shown that Nitrogen Oxide emissions are frequently reduced up to 20% and Sulfur Oxide, up to 89%. Smoke levels are reduced with bioheat resulting in less maintenance.

Biodiesel gives a much better energy balance than petroleum fuels. Typically it takes more energy to extract, process and transport fuel oil to your greenhouse than the heat that is generated. With biodiesel made from soybeans, 3.2 units of biodiesel are produced for every unit consumed in production. The most recent plants put on line are now achieving a ratio of 7 to 1.


Further information on biodiesel and bioheat including handling and burning, storage, suppliers and distributors is available at www.biodiesel.org.


Waste/Used Oil

Another category of fuels that is becoming popular as a heat source for greenhouses is oil that is a byproduct of other processes. These include crankcase oil, transmission fluid, cutting oil, hydraulic fluid, antifreeze, cooking oil and certain solvents. They have the advantage of being inexpensive as compared to No. 2 fuel oil and are readily available in some areas. Burning is an approved method of getting rid of this material.

Some growers set up collection routes that include garages and oil change service centers, vehicle dismantlers, machine shops and contractors that do heavy equipment repair. Other growers have developed a relationship with fast food restaurants and institutional kitchens that have considerable used cooking oil. Some growers just purchase waste oil that has been collected by a recycling firm.

Handling these oils can present some problems. You will need drums or tanks to collect the oil. In large quantities it has to be pumped. Once you have it at the greenhouses it will need to be filtered and stored. In most cases the tanks should be placed in a containment area as a precaution against a spill.

The oils can contain many impurities including metal chips and filings, lead from bearings, sludge, gasoline, potato chips and water. Usually a 40 or 50 mesh strainer will remove most of the solids. The material may be considered a hazardous waste and have to be disposed of according to Environmental Protection Agency regulations. This can be expensive if it has to be burned at an incinerator designed to handle hazardous waste.

Burning the oil will require a furnace or boiler designed to handle it. Several companies have developed burners that use compressed air to get the atomization of the fuel. Some also use a preheater as some fuels have a higher viscosity than fuel oil. Burner size is limited by EPA to no more than 500,000 Btu/hr input. Some growers have installed multiple units to get a higher heat output. All of these heaters will burn No. 2 fuel oil or kerosene if you run out of waste oil.

To avoid any sludge pickup, the intake pipe and strainer to the burner should be set 3 to 6 inches above the bottom of the supply tank. An oil filter should be installed just before the burner.

A two to four cubic feet per minute compressed air supply at 15 to 40 psi is usually required depending on the output of the burner. This can be from an integral compressor or from a separate air supply.


The following are companies that manufacturer furnaces and boilers that will burn waste oil:
Clean Burn, Leola PA – www.cleanburn.com
Compuheat, Inc., North Ridgeville OH www.wasteoilburners.us
Firelake Manufacturing LLC, Mt. Crawford VA www.firelakemfg.com
Norki Energy Systems, Inc. – Poughkeepsie NY – www.norki.com
Siebring Manufacturing, Inc. George IA – www.siebringmfg.com
The use of alternate fuels such as biodiesel and waste oil can go a long way to reducing our dependence on foreign oil. As compared to other alternatives such as wood and coal, oil fuels require less work and maintenance.
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  #7  
Old 10-07-2008, 10:01 AM
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  #8  
Old 10-08-2008, 09:50 PM
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Its a furnace.

I just set it to 65F. Guess I'll just bundle up more this winter
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1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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  #9  
Old 10-08-2008, 10:05 PM
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You should be able to use the ATF in the waste oil burner by mother earth news. Some use the burner to not only heat their house, but they hot water as well. There are also a few mods made by readers that greatly increased output. The whole contraption was fairly inexpensive.
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2008, 11:18 AM
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Walking by a local garage yesterday, the had a Cleanburn furnace (still on the pallet) They are spendy and have a 30 day cleaning needs, but they build a robust and heavy product.

To burn waste oil, I think I might invest in a centrifugal type filter. It might extend the service interval of the furnace significantly.
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  #11  
Old 10-09-2008, 11:26 AM
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Annual cleaning really helps efficiency. Oil soot is an insulator. When it coats the heat exchanger, more BTUs go up the chimney.

The waste oil stuff sounds interesting. I wish there were a fool-proof way to test it but I would hate to be without heat when its 0* out because of some clog or malfunction.
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  #12  
Old 10-09-2008, 12:24 PM
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Burn wood insted.

We have a wood burning stove/water heater set up in the basement. If we run it in the winter it's not quite powerfull enough to heat the house, but it reduces the gas bill to about $50 a month average, or something silly low.
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2008, 10:35 PM
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Thats why I wanted to use a seperate tank and tee into the feed line, that way if there wa a problem, I can switch back to heating oil fairly easily.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:39 PM
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  #15  
Old 10-09-2008, 10:44 PM
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If I had an endless supply of used ATF and an oil furnace, I'd blend the ATF into the heating oil in the main tank. I'd start off small and work my way up gradually until I hit 100% ATF or encountered some problem.

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