Whats a good method for removing a broken bolt?

Even after soaking in liquid wrench over night and tapping on the heads with a hammer and punch the bolt(s) still snapped off flush to the surface.

I've never used an easy out or left handed drill bits. Special note, its an aluminum block so heating cycles probably out of the questions




in retrospect, I should have just left the thing alone.

Can you drill it out? My uncle taught me this, drill it out tap it and then apply lots of super strength locktite to a bolt to match the tap you just put in then put the new bolt with locktite in and wait to dry usually you can then just loosen the new bolt and whats left of the old bolt will come with it. Hope this helps good luck

I would rather try and save the current threads. I have a feeling the bolt a zinc coated steel bolt welded itself to the aluminum block. It's right next to the exhaust manifold so 20 years of heating and cooling have probably done its toll.

Easy out is probably your best bet.

Try to file it flat first and mark the center with a hole punch. Obviously, drill straight.

If you can't get it out you may still be able to hammer the outside edges in and take it out piece by piece.

Danny

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I've had lots of success breaking easy-outs.
I've had a few success's actually removing a broken bolt with an easy out.
Most times the final fix has been drilling the offending bolt with the same size bit required for tapping a new hole, then removing what is left with a dental pick type device.

ill grab some easy outs and left hand drill bits and a drill bit the same size as a new tap'd hole would require

If the head broke off because the steel had bonded with the aluminum, there's not much of a chance that an easy out will help. I think you're going to have to drill it out.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
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1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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Are you talking about basically drilling a skinny hole through the bolt and tapping that?

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1984 300TD

I bought a tap and drill bit the next size up of the original threads. Thankfully there is enough metal around both holes to accept the upsized threads.

For cutting oil what can i use or is cutting oil required?



I'm going to give the easy out a crack and if that fails then ill tap it

If the piece is at all portable find out if anyone local has an EDM mach9ine. I had an old 318 head I got from a drunk who broke off studs trying to tremove headers, then I got the truck. EDM lasred them right out w/o any change in thread size. Cost me 40 bucks for two studs. Aluminum would be faster. I also suggest using Copper-based anti-seize with the new studs for the future.

S

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Strelnik
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nope, cant do that... Its on the block, its where the alternator bracket mounts to part of the block and would be an issue to move the block with heads still on it to get it laser'd

I would leave the eziout on the shelf. I have never had much luck with anything except breaking them.

I would drill and tap. When a steel bolt is bonded in the aluminum like that a lot of times it will bring the threads with it when it comes out anyway.....so then you will have to helicoil it or similar.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Well, I bought the thing I might as well take a crack at it.

I used Aerkroil as a cutting liquid when I drilled out my motor mount bolt.

I'm sure your penetrating oil will work fine.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
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I dont have any cutting oil.. I have liquid wrench, wd-40, motor oil, and some white lithium grease.