Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > General Discussions > Off-Topic Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-02-2009, 01:20 PM
126 Guy
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 523
Who uses Heating oil #2 to heat their home?

Anybody here in the forums that use home heating oil #2 to heat their homes and use some type of additive for the oil or motor to keep the boiler in tip top shape? I was just curious if there was any products out there

__________________
2001 E55

2001 E320 Sedan

2001 Subaru Legacy

2006 SLK280

2016 Subaru Outback 3.6
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-02-2009, 01:35 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Rockville MD
Posts: 833
Haven't heard of any. Just get an annual cleaning, nozzle replacement, and air shutter adjustment. If the boiler is too big for the house (most of them are) look into down sizing the nozzle GPH rating a size or two.
__________________
1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-02-2009, 02:11 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
I heat with oil and maintain the system myself.

I add a bit of "sludge treat" to the oil to cut down on the slime in the tanks. A filter generally lasts one year..........barely.

The system is tuned for temperature throughout the year. Outside the heating season, the boiler is set at 135°. October, November, March, and April get a setting of 145°. December, January, and February get a setting of 155°. It works fine with the cast iron radiators which have huge BTU capability. There is a limitation on rate of climb and final temperature attained at these water temperatures.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-02-2009, 02:22 PM
LUVMBDiesels's Avatar
Dead on balls accurate...
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Red Lion,Pa
Posts: 2,207
My house up in New Paltz uses #2. I have had no issues with slime or have had to put in any additives. My filters last about two years. I also do the boiler temp adjustments during the year. In the dead of winter the temp has to be raised in order to get heat up to the farthest of the five zones...

I have the oil guys do the soot cleanup every fall.
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy"

Current
Monika '74 450 SL
BrownHilda '79 280SL
FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban
Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee
Krystal 2004 Volvo S60
Gone
'74 Jeep CJ5
'97 Jeep ZJ Laredo
Rudolf ‘86 300SDL
Bruno '81 300SD
Fritzi '84 BMW
'92 Subaru
'96 Impala SS
'71 Buick GS conv
'67 GTO conv
'63 Corvair conv
'57 Nomad
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-02-2009, 02:26 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels View Post

I have the oil guys do the soot cleanup every fall.
They had done it here for years. Then, I finally watched them and timed them. They actually got the cleaning portion down to seven minutes. Like to take a guess how thorough they were?

I do it myself and it takes a solid hour to brush every possible surface of the tubes. The shopvac with the bag insert does a proper job on soot containment.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-02-2009, 02:27 PM
Carleton Hughes's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I heat with oil and maintain the system myself.

I add a bit of "sludge treat" to the oil to cut down on the slime in the tanks. A filter generally lasts one year..........barely.

The system is tuned for temperature throughout the year. Outside the heating season, the boiler is set at 135°. October, November, March, and April get a setting of 145°. December, January, and February get a setting of 155°. It works fine with the cast iron radiators which have huge BTU capability. There is a limitation on rate of climb and final temperature attained at these water temperatures.
Indeed,I have a point spread on the aquastat of 135-150.
I also have an old Agway tank in the carriage barn with which I fuel my "diesels"....SShh.....
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-02-2009, 02:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Rockville MD
Posts: 833
Just remember that prolonged boiler temps below 150* can cause corrosive acidic condensation in the flue and chimney. I stick with a high limit of 170*, and the low limit is varied by an aftermarket control unit.
__________________
1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-02-2009, 02:43 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by raymr View Post
Just remember that prolonged boiler temps below 150* ..............
130° is the limit.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-02-2009, 02:57 PM
LUVMBDiesels's Avatar
Dead on balls accurate...
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Red Lion,Pa
Posts: 2,207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
They had done it here for years. Then, I finally watched them and timed them. They actually got the cleaning portion down to seven minutes. Like to take a guess how thorough they were?

I do it myself and it takes a solid hour to brush every possible surface of the tubes. The shopvac with the bag insert does a proper job on soot containment.

I would do it, but the house is rented out and it is part of the service contract with the heating oil guys.
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy"

Current
Monika '74 450 SL
BrownHilda '79 280SL
FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban
Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee
Krystal 2004 Volvo S60
Gone
'74 Jeep CJ5
'97 Jeep ZJ Laredo
Rudolf ‘86 300SDL
Bruno '81 300SD
Fritzi '84 BMW
'92 Subaru
'96 Impala SS
'71 Buick GS conv
'67 GTO conv
'63 Corvair conv
'57 Nomad
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-02-2009, 03:08 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels View Post
I would do it, but the house is rented out and it is part of the service contract with the heating oil guys.
Yep..........know the feeling. The rentals are all under contract. But, I try to go to the rental then they do the cleaning...........you'd be amazed what they simply avoid doing...........too difficult.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-02-2009, 03:11 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Rockville MD
Posts: 833
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
130° is the limit.
I didn't say how much below 150. You are right. That is the absolute low limit before the bad stuff condenses inside. As long as the returning cold water from the house doesn't plunge the boiler temperature down too far, and the burner can bring it back up in time, it should be OK. I rather avoid the issue entirely. Our system is still (mostly) the original from 1965.
__________________
1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-02-2009, 03:16 PM
unkl300d's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: San Francisco, Ca
Posts: 2,468
This is interesting. My brother's home in Trumbull,CT uses oil for heting but I have no idea what oil grade.

How many grades are there??
I wish I could chat him up on the technical aspects but he's not that open...
__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-02-2009, 03:20 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by raymr View Post
I didn't say how much below 150. You are right. That is the absolute low limit before the bad stuff condenses inside. As long as the returning cold water from the house doesn't plunge the boiler temperature down too far, and the burner can bring it back up in time, it should be OK. I rather avoid the issue entirely. Our system is still (mostly) the original from 1965.
I have the problem with plunging boiler temps with the return water from the cast iron radiators. They can suck BTU's from the boiler at incredible speed.

I finally resorted to a gravity feet system...........no circulator running unless it's below 20F.............and the boiler stays ahead of the house under most conditions. Furthermore, the rooms (the house has nine zones) do not suffer from overshoot which is common with the cast iron.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-02-2009, 03:40 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
No natural gas available 'round those parts? Sounds like a lot of hassle....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-02-2009, 04:01 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
No natural gas available 'round those parts? Sounds like a lot of hassle....
I do have natural gas. It was traditionally more costly to heat with gas. At a fuel oil price of $2.30, it's about on par.

Our price now is about $1.75.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page