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Leaky water heater
A few months ago I had the bright idea of shutting off my electric water tank when I’m not around to save money on the electric bill. The idea worked well and the electric bill dropped by about 20%. But what has happened is that while the heater is off, there appears to be a small leak. This amounts to less than a cup of water found at the base of the tank. Typically the tank is on for 3 days and off for 4 days. A day after the heater is turned back on, there is no sign of water at the base. So at what point does the leak become bad enough to warrant replacing the tank, which is about 10 years old? |
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#2
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It's time now.
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#3
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Are you sure it's not condensation?
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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#4
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The severity of the leak depends on where the water is coming from. If it's from the tank as opposed to a connection or overflow valve, I would replace it. If not, and if you have a pan with drain hose below the tank, I would worry about it right now.
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Don't Chrome them; polish them |
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#5
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I'd look at an obvious place first.
The area where the heating element(s) screws in the tank. I would suspect that since you're shutting the electricity off, the area where the element(s) are located have "contracted" just enough to break the "seal" between the element and tank and you may have a seepage issue... If you see the "tracks" of where the water is seeping out of the tank, turn off the electricity servicing the tank, turn off the tank's water supply, drain the tank, remove the element(s) and reapply whatever sealant they use when those elements are installed for the first time, reinsert the element(s), turn water supply back on and bleed the air out of the system while you're checking for leaks, hook the electric service back up, turn the electricity back on and be sure you haven't shorted anything out...now, you're golden. Unless your water is so bad, your tank probably has another 5 years left on it, at least. The only other place(s) your tank would leak (unless it has a "blow-out" spot forming) are the inlet/outlet points. If it's leaking there, call SEARS/HOME DEPOT/WHEREEVER and get the latest/greatest and schedule delivery...the old one is out'a there! Good luck!
__________________
. ![]() . M. G. Burg'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K .'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K ..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K ...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K ....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K .....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K ......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp .......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125 . “I didn’t really say everything I said.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~ |
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#6
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If its from the tank replace it before it goes and you have 50 gallons of water where you don't want it. Where is this tank? Basement? Attic of your condo!
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2006 CL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2026 Genesis GV70 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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#7
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Sounds like you might be a good candidate for an on demand heater. There are good versions in gas or electric, although the electric will require some rewiring, if you have enough amperage. 200 amp service seems to be what most require.
__________________
On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
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#8
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I still think that after sitting 4 days without heat, this could be condensation.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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#9
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A gas company repairman once gave me some good info, which I've used a lot over the years. This may be your problem, maybe not. He told me that a lot of people scrap perfectly good water heaters just because they develop a small leak and they don't investigate the source. He told me that when w.h. company's started using plastic drain spigots, (the spout on the base of the heater with the handle for draining the tank), tanks started leaking more. Supposedly, though cheaper on the manufacturing end, they were not as dependable as the old metal ones. He told me that to install a "real" metal spigot when ever I buy a new one, before I even fill it up the first time. A $3 or $4 part can save a lot of headaches. I don't know if it's because of expansion\contraction or that plastic cracks, or what, but since I've started doing this 20 years ago, I've never had one leak there, and I tell everyone about this when I hear of a 'leaking tank'. That being said, it could be a leaking tank or a leaking pressure relief blow off valve, (of which i've only had one bad one in my entire life), but it's worth the check. I was also told by the same repairman that it's good practice to drain your tank once or twice a year to get rid of any built up stuff in it. I attach a garden hose to the drain spigot, run it outside, turn off the heater, drain it till it's empty, close the drain, fill it up (leaving at least one hot water faucet open, usually the tub), and don't turn your tank back on until it's completely full, whether it's gas or electric. (it will fry your elements or crack your glass tank liner)
Also, we live in a very hard water area, and I use a shop vac with a piece of clear 3/4"-1" hose to suck out the lime and mineral build up. (The clear hose lets you see what's coming out.) The shop vac makes a back breaking job using one of those tools to hand scoop it out of the same hole a piece of cake, 5 minute job. Or, if you like to spend your hard earned dollars, by-pass all these steps, and buy a new water heater whenever you get a drip. I prefer to spend mine on things that really do need replaced. That said, 20 years is a hell of a life for a water heater. You may need a new one. And the person who suggested an on-demand tankless heater was right. They're expensive, but paying to heat water 24/7 for use only a few times a day is like leaving your car running all the time so that it's ready when you need to go somewhere. Only your refrigerator uses more electricity 24/7/365. I'm getting one when we build our next house. Wish i had one now! Hope this helps. Check the drain spigot first. If that's it, drain it (turn it off first!) and put a metal spigot on, with pipe dope. The sealler on your old one is probably not sealing anymore, or the spigot's washer is rotted. Good luck!
__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
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#10
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You never know, it might be, but the tank is only going to cool down to ambient temps. If there was some mechanism of physics that made it get cold for a time, I would be more ready to assume condensation.
I'll agree with the looseness at the element diagnosis, even after considering the source. ![]() And then these things don't last all that long anyway. If it's 9 or 10 years old, certainly 15, might be going south.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
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#11
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My mistake. I thought it read 20 years.
__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
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#12
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I bet its condensation, especially if it is not leaking when powered up. How old is it? If it is real old it might be a good idea to replace it, the newer ones are likely more efficient anyways.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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#13
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I would suggest that you put one of those heater blankets over the tank to stop any condensation. If it is still leaking, then you have a real problem. as discussed above... The blankets are pretty cheap and will help hold in the heat while the tank is off.
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
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#14
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Now is your chance to up date to a tankless heater. I've had my two for 20 years and have never had a leak, they are all stainless steel and brass, and only spent $11 each on repairs. They are expensive to buy but very cheap to operate.
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#15
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Are yours gas or super electric powered? I know the electric ones need some serious juice....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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