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#1
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Safest way to do engine mounts
What would you guys do to make engine mount replacements the safest? I have no problem with the passenger side one -- but the drivers side is a tricky one to get at the bolt.
How would you keep the sump propped up without damaging it (my floorjack tends to very slowly creep down this is why I need another idea to keep the engine up once its there)
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#2
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Please invest in a new floorjack. Don't risk your life on something like that. Body parts (yours) are very expensive to repair!
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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma |
#3
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changed my views after reading an article that stated that any floor jack can experience a "catastrophic failure" at any time without warning! northern tools has a device that will hold the engine up once it is jacked into place. it sits on opposing fender wells with a chain that holds the engine up. far safer than risking your hands to a hydraulic floor jack. granted a lot of people have used floor jacks to change out engine mounts, but what if you are that one in a million that experiences a hydraulic jack failure while your hands are under a very heavy engine?
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#4
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I always use the floor jack but you could use a 4x4 piece of wood across the inner fender wells and a chain or ratchet strap. Ive never seen a floor jack fail in 20 years of wrenching but still dont get under a car without stands.
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#5
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Yep. I always back up a floor jack with jack stands. The stuff's all made in China so you can't be too sure.
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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma |
#6
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I guess a lift and jack poles are not an option? That's how I did mine.
Possibly a hoist?
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
#7
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Quote:
I sent 80 bucks on a 2500 lb motor cycle lift that is two arms moving upward with a steel bar between them. As you lift the arms, the whole gizmos has back-up rods that lock into place evry 6 inches, so even with catastrophic failure, the mechanic back up gives you time to move. Of coutse, I have four 6 ton jack stands as well. Never go under w/o jack stands
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#8
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NEVER do any work under a car without jackstands!
I have the drivers side mount out right now. Both sides are up on jackstands and I have a board under the oil pan and lift it up with a hydraulic jack. Some preparation is needed. The engine shocks & the longitudinal shaft needs to be disconnected. That back bolt is a pita. I used an allen key and turned it 1/4 turn at a time. I did it from underneath. You can't see it you have to do it by feel. Danny
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#9
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If your floor jack is worth more than about $12 you can easily rebuild it. Any hydraulic shop has the seals. I have a 50 year old cast iron frame Walker that I have rebuild 3 times. It is dead simple.
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