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  #1  
Old 10-19-2009, 08:58 PM
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1985 Porsche 944

What can I expect to pay for this? I'm planning on racing it, so a lot of the problems don't really apply to me, but I still don't want to pay more than what someone else would.

-p/s inop. claim just a leak
-a/c inop. claim just a fuse or something
-good body and paint
-interior in poor condition
-needs new shifter bushings
-oil leak claim oil pan gasket
-**** ghetto muffler on it makes it sound like crap
-emergency brake only holds when it's pulled up all the way-just haggard
-doors don't close well.
-needs hood and trunk shocks/struts
-~110,000 miles
-runs, drives and shifts fine
-modified air intake

I think that's about it, they're asking $2700, I'm thinking $2000. What do you guys think?

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  #2  
Old 10-19-2009, 09:26 PM
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4 grand for a nice one, that one's worth about 1. The "power steering" problem will turn out to be a bad steering rack, that'll teach you where the hurt locker is located - they always crap out on the 944. 2 grand minimum to fix it. If the doors don't close good it's probably been hit. I've done my time with Porsches. Anything breaks, it's a grand minimum. The door handle falls off, it will turn out to cost a grand to fix it. That's why I switched to Mercedes sports cars. It still costs a grand every time something breaks, but they don't break as often. Find a good 107 450SL, strip everything to the bone, and race away.

Oh, and watch out for the oil leak, it's probably a crank seal. With a Porsche, consider what could be wrong, and whatever the worse possible thing it could be, will be it.


Last edited by JollyRoger; 10-19-2009 at 09:37 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-20-2009, 08:25 AM
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run away.........
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  #4  
Old 10-20-2009, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Txjake View Post
run away.........
X2

With an unknown history, and stuff like that apparent, Indeed 1K is all she's worth.

And if you look around for another one, find the nicest you can possibly afford.

Bare minimum is to make sure the cam and balance belts + rollers (every 30K miles) have been done recently. Otherwise you must have it ramped to someone who knows how to do the job. Interference engine.

The all aluminum engines, other than the above are supposedly as tough as a Mercedes. It's just a bit tight in places when you DO have to work on something.
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  #5  
Old 10-20-2009, 11:31 AM
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The best way to buy a 944 is to purchase the best example you can find. Compared to other Porsches, they are dirt cheap. You can pick up a nice one for under 5 grand if you look long enough. They are a lot of fun, they are considered one of the best handling Porsches and they shift like a Ferrari, which is why they are so popular for track racing. Their problem has always been that half-an-engine they stuck in under the hood, without a turbo, the thing is a dud. But like any Porsche, and unlike a Chevy, when they are dogged out, they cost a fortune to fix.

Look for them in the well-to-do neighborhoods. Porsche pushed this as a "lady's sports car" while the marketed the 928 to their husbands, a lot of people with the means purchased both cars, and mom's 944 may have sat in the garage and still be in nice shape.
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  #6  
Old 10-20-2009, 02:30 PM
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I hear a 83 Corvette would go around a track quite nicely

~Nate
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  #7  
Old 10-20-2009, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate View Post
I hear a 83 Corvette would go around a track quite nicely

~Nate

No way man! I've got the ONLY '83 'vette around. I keep it under a car cover in my underground warehouse just off the coastline here in Tucson.
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  #8  
Old 10-20-2009, 03:18 PM
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For a track only car, you're going to want something that's a bit more reliable and not a bank buster. I'd suggest a MX5 or a Celica Turbo All-Trac.

Top Gear tried to find cheap Porsches and the results were hilarious.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQwApGXZ_Xg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RbRGOrv_Pk&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wN3pnmDVSOA&feature=related
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  #9  
Old 10-20-2009, 03:33 PM
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I have to agree, the "Audi GT" 924/944 cars (except the Turbo S) are risky at this age.
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  #10  
Old 10-20-2009, 03:53 PM
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one important thing...check the alternator mount. if it is cracked then the car is totalled.

apparently, the mount is part of the aluminum block. you can't weld aluminum.
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  #11  
Old 10-20-2009, 04:24 PM
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Why buy and build ?

Lot of prepared cars out there already. In this economy you can buy something track ready for half the price it would cost to build.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/classifieds/

http://www.racecar2000.com/classifieds/search-results-5.html
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2009, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benhogan View Post
one important thing...check the alternator mount. if it is cracked then the car is totalled.

apparently, the mount is part of the aluminum block. you can't weld aluminum.
Oh, on the contrary, sir, one can weld aluminum. I don't know about welding onto a block though, that's what's questionable.

I'm looking for something of a project. I want to keep the cost down and race season is just about over up north. The thing that worries me most is the body sag not, I had not thought of that. Is there a way to measure it? Or should I just find another?
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  #13  
Old 10-20-2009, 04:40 PM
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Here's another one I like http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1421948623.html

One of my friends has one and I drove it. Very nice, I'd like to race one.

My dad brought up the mx5 like tyler, but I still want a cool looking car (I'm not a big fan of the mazda, a little boring) and older ones won't have much (if any) emissions to worry about and would be easier to work on, as well as having a higher probability of looking cool.
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  #14  
Old 10-20-2009, 07:11 PM
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Here's a an '86 corvette near me http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/ctd/1419664215.html

Would a auto-standard conversion be easy enough?
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  #15  
Old 10-21-2009, 06:32 AM
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I thought Miatas were boring too before I bought one.

They are extremely fun to drive, reliable as an anvil and rugged as a mountain. What convinced me to buy one is their pervasive presence at autocrosses with fellows revving them up to 4000 rpm and dropping the clutch to lay two stripes of rubber with r compound tires time after time and never NEVER have I seen one break anything at an autocross.

When driving them the biggest danger is getting bugs stuck in your grinning teeth (not really unless you remove the windshield).

In my fourth year of autocrossing as a 60 year old, at several meets this year I set fastest stock time and another one I was second fastest stock class time to another CS car, a solstice.

Miatas often are fastest stock class car at meets, depending on the course layout. Yes, beating porsche 911s, MX8s, Subarus and Corvettes.

We also often beat about half the modified class cars.

So if driving it hard all the time and never having to work on it much is boring to you then I agree....they are a boring car!

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