The concrete slab I poured over the weekend has one exposed edge with too many voids and irregularities for my taste. What's the best way to fill in those voids and irregular edges? I will eventually paint the concrete, so I don't suppose it is necessary to try to match the color.

Is Top-N-Bond a good choice? Someone at work suggested using regular morter.

There's a vinyl(?) based concrete patching material sold in a yellow bucket at Home Depot I think. I've seen some decent looking repairs done with it. Not sure I'd use it any place structural strength was required.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I'd use the same. Some of them are 6 or 8k psi. The aggregrate is a reasonable size for sacking holes as well.

Mortar might not finish as smooth as trowel finished concrete since you want to coat it later. Would also be somewhat more absorbent which could effect the color of the coating too.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I think I'd mix up a little more of the same concrete mix I used for the slab--except I'd screen off the coarse stone, leaving only the sand and cement. Mix up a paste using an admixture that promotes bonding. Wet the exposed edge with the same bonding admix, and trowel it into the edge, using a lot of pressure.
After it sets for a day or two, I think I'd try a corundum (?) block. Its a rough abrasive block used by masons to grind down rough surfaces.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

Not to thread jack, but I've got similer issues with the concreate here also.
(Honus, if you do mind, pm me and I'll make a new thread)


Anyways, heavy salting the first wihter after it was poured, plus 10 years of wisconsin winters, have caused small divots in the driveway surface. Theres also a two or three 1' round oil stains that laugh at commercial degreasers with viggorious scrubbing that would be nice to cover.

I don't know if it's too cold out to do anything about it (low 50's for 2 days, then low 40's and rain/snow), but are there any cheap topcoat options? I really like the suggestion of vinyl based crap in a tub, but I'm googling "cheap concrete repair) and not getting anything.

Any help on mine?

~Nate

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

There are some thin toppings around; search Ardex, self leveling concrete toppings, etc.

Someone may come up with a super duper product you could use; I'll guarantee whatever it is that it'll work better in Spring than with Winter approaching.

{The stains and divots will be covered in ice soon enough anyways....so, don't worry, be happy.}

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Did you put rebar in there before you poured the slab? Did you use a vibrator during the pour? (OK, not that kind!)

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

That sounds like a good inexpensive fix. I've used some stuff from Sika corp. recently, of Sikaflex fame, a concrete/mortar mix with an admixture that comes with it. A bit spendy, about $40, but the stuff is pretty aggressive in its grabbing ability and non-sag nature. But that's more than is needed here methinks.

I did a thing with if for a client who was tired of water coming into his garage. About 2 feet of the floor on one side edge of the garage door had cracked and was sinking a bit so water would flow in on a heavy rain. I cut a channel about 2" wide, about 1" deep and put in a little berm like affair that tapered to flush after it joined the higher original floor, the uncracked part and rose up to about an inch and a half above the plane where the water was flowing in on the other side. I cut the channel cuz I didn't want to have the 'crete going down to a feathered edge which would just chip away over time.

Worked pretty well. Keeps the flood out so far.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I did not use rebar. I used that wire screen, or whatever you call it, sort of like heavy 4-by-4 inch box wire fencing.

I did not vibrate it, but I did try to work it in as we went along.

Should Welded Wire Fabric, 6X6

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

It might have been 6x6. I used whatever they had in the concrete aisle at Lowes.