I've been working for the past couple weeks to repair the brakes on my dad's '99 GM Safari van, a process long dragged out because of weather and other issues. I had to replace the front steel lines as well as the calipers (and pads). I had to bleed the brakes by myself which didn't go too well, but I think I got the job done. The brake pedal doesn't feel right, and here's the kicker: the van won't start. Turn the key over and I just hear this moaning sound, nothing. I took the battery to AutoZone and they recharged it and said it was fine. Still nothing. I have the Haynes manual and followed that procedure for replacing/bleeding the brakes lines and calipers, and I don't really see what I could have done to screw up (other than maybe needing to bleed more). Is it just a coincidence that the van won't start, or is there some kind of starter lockout that may be in action because I screwed up the brakes?
I'll check the associated relays, since maybe it was just coincidental failure there (or I bumped something), but I'm just wondering if it's not coincidence.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Like the starter is moaning but not turning?

Sounds silly but did you happen to take it out of "ParK" while working on it maybe and not fully click it back into place (Neutral start safety switch)?

Here's a more-detailed description of the noise: I turn the key to the 2 position and the buzzing/moaning noise starts. When I turn the key into the ignition position, the noise remains the same. After about five seconds, there's a click and the noise stops, as if a relay were clicking off. After that turning the key has no effect. However, if I turn the key back to 1 or zero, the buzz/moan starts again, and again goes off after five seconds.
daveuz, I did check that, because that would have actually made sense since I was fumbling around the cabin a lot. But it's in park. I wonder if there's a sensor related to that lockout feature that I may have accidentally disconnected while jamming the brake line under the chassi?

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Well it can only be a few things. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070730221240AAnzEQD This link explained some better than I can type.

I'd try jumping the starter directly at the starter to see what happens. If it turns over, then the problem is upstream from the starter somewhere.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

The buzzing is just the fuel pump, thats normal.

Are you sure the car is in P, try starting in N.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Thanks guys. I'll try jumping the starter and I'll also try to locate the sensor for the neutral start lockout. Although after reading the one guy's answer on ask.com that mentioned the car burning to the ground, I might just want to haul it to the mechanic.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Does the van have ABS?

__________________
1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

As I remember, the ABS on these GM vehicles has a pretty complex bleeding procedure. You really need a partner to help or at least a power/vacuum bleeder.

The noise you hear is probably the ABS pump trying to adjust the pressures in the system. There may be some sort of interlock that prevents the starter from operating if the ABS does not initialize properly.

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Yes, which is why I was wondering if something I did may have caused a problem. The procedure described in the Haynes manual was pretty much all the same as the procedure on the MBs ... I just used a PVC pipe instead of a helper to hold the brake pedal down.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

The vehicle appears to have a Kelsey-Hayes 4WAL system as described here:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes.htm

See the bleeding procedure detailed at the end of the article.

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Thanks for the link KarTek .... although I'm not really sure if this car does have 4WAL or if it has RWAL. It doesn't have the module described in the engine compartment (it is actually pictured in the Haynes manual, too; I just missed it for some reason) ... it has a module under the chassi behind the left front wheel, like under the driver's seat. It's a box somewhat similar to the one in the link you gave, but it doesn't seem to have any bleed screw. The brakes definitely aren't bled right ... the pedal feels odd. One thing I probably did wrong was only bleeding the fronts, since that's all I changed. I realize the module attaches to all four brakes, so since air got into it, it probably is necessary to bleed all four wheels. If I can get anyone to help me, I guess I'll try that.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

sounds to me like a bad connection at the battery.

I noticed the lights, heat, etc., do come on in the van, though. Although I suppose it could be getting enough power to run those items but not engage the starter. Either that or the bad connection could just be the lead to the starter. I didn't get a chance to try jumping to the starter yet ... that may tell me more. I'm kind of running out of patience, with the van but mostly with myself.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)