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#1
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Anybody know Subarus?
I've got a couple issues with mine that my research hasn't turned up much info on. It's an '02 Outback wagon with the standard 2.5L flat-4 and the auto tranny.
The car has a vibration on acceleration between 20 and 30mph, and again (although not as noticeable) around 55-60mph. It isn't RPM related, and it doesn't do it if I put in the FWD fuse (locks the car in front drive), or if I'm coasting, so I'm thinking it may be the CV axles. I can feel it a little in the wheel, but mostly in my feet. It doesn't seem to be gear-dependent, and it doesn't vibrate when coasting or engine braking down a hill. I'm also getting a subtle random chirping noise, also on acceleration. I thought it might be the belts but I drove the car around without them (water pump is on the timing belt) and it didn't go away. It doesn't do it when the engine is revved in neutral, and I didn't notice it when loading the engine/tranny while on the brake. Wonder if they're related?
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Dale http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...MG_2277sig.jpg 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k 2000 E430 - 103k 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k 2014 VW Passat TDI SE - 7k Bro's Diesel 2006 E320 CDI - 128k Pop's Benz Pre-glow - A moment of silence in honor of Rudolph Diesel |
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#2
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The info I have is based on the 89-98 4EAT, and you may want to verify that the same stuff holds true for the later one:
Pull the rear driveshaft and take it to a reputable driveline shop to have the universals replaced. If they say they can't be replaced, then go to another shop. I have done them, but then most people don't go as in-depth on car repairs as I do. The forward universal tends to go out catastrophically, and is the reason I got mine for next to nothing: ![]() While the driveshaft is out, put a jack under the transmission pan, pull the crossmember and mount, and then remove the output housing. There are I think 8 bolts, a sensor for the rear output, and then once it's loose another connector for the solenoid. Use some 400-600grit crocus cloth and smooth up the drum that's exposed. This will keep the rear output from binding and causing a shudder. The serrations are supposed to be there, the clutch teeth wear against them though and cause rough spots you can feel. Ultimatesubaru.org is a good resource to verify this info. |
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#3
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Have you asked at www.subaruoutback.org about this? They are the best with information online...
Also take a look at www.naisoc.com or www.naisoc.org (can't say which is the correct link, just now. I loved the 1995 2.2 Outback, so much that I bought the 2008 2.5i OUtback PZEV I traded in. Here is a pic of both, that day in March 2008. ![]() Both were bulletproof, and well built, and the new one, especially seemed beautifully put together and surprisingly safe, and easy on gas. They are really good vehicles, though without turbo's, not too fast.
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1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold) 2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp 1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k 2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)
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#4
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Made a video this weekend illustrating the "chirp". All but the first five seconds or so are driving uphill. You kind of have to listen to it to hear it; it's easier to hear next to guardrails and such.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZiKdLlN2h0
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Dale http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...MG_2277sig.jpg 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k 2000 E430 - 103k 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k 2014 VW Passat TDI SE - 7k Bro's Diesel 2006 E320 CDI - 128k Pop's Benz Pre-glow - A moment of silence in honor of Rudolph Diesel |
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