W124 and Spring Perch

[The Swede]

I spotted an ad for a w124 wagon and mentioned the spring perch issue common to the w210.

Is this typical for a 124?

[TheDon]

The seller is probably confused

[The Swede]

I dunno, here's the ad:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/1962172400.html

Looks like a decent deal unless it's mega-bux to repair this "issue".

[TheDon]

looks like it has serious rust issues. I'd stay away.

Rust would cause this issue on any car

[The Swede]

That's what I was thinking since he mentioned parting it out. Damn clean car though. I'm looking for a winter car, but don't want a project.

[PaulC]

Did you sell the w123 wagon?

[The Swede]

I have still have her... Put a ton of miles on 'er since May and has been great.

It's too nice to drive in the winter and I also think it would be tough to start when the temps are -20F.

I was thinking about a late 90's Landcruiser too.

[tbomachines]

Ferrari Mondial cabrio in the background...nice neighborhood!

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by The Swede

I spotted an ad for a w124 wagon and mentioned the spring perch issue common to the w210.

Is this typical for a 124?

This is an issue for 124 chassis cars though not nearly as frequent as it appears it is in 210 chassis cars. As they do for 210 chassis repairs MB offers repair parts as both the upper spring perch by itself and the upper spring perch attached to a section of the inner wheel well/box frame sheet metal.

The repair is not that difficult to accomplish, basically after disconnecting the shock and removing the spring, the old perch is removed, the area around and behind it is cleaned of undercoating and rust (wire wheel does this great) then you need to decide if there is enough metal left for a solid reattachment of just the perch by itself or whether the perch and sheet metal repair part is required.

I've done the job two ways, scab the plate perch over the rusted section, welding around the edges and numerous through holes in between, seal it up with undercoat. As this was welded, the areas exposed within the engine compartment where cleaned primed and painted after the welding heat destroyed the original paint, and the area inside the chassis box frame was douched with Wurth's yellow waxoyl product to rust proof that area.

And I've done it ala' the 210 factory procedure with a slight modification. The 210 procedure uses adhesive and very large and strong pop rivets. I poke some additional holes in the sheet metal and completely cover both sides of the repair with two-part panel adhesive, squeezing it together and then installing the rivets once the panels as close and tight as they can be gotten. The extra holes allow the adhesive to squeeze out rather than being trapped and forming a pocket preventing the metal from coming close together. After installing smear the adhesive over the holes and around the edges to seal things up, add some undercoating spray (3M seam sealer paste and/or spray shutz) and put it back together.

I've got about 5 or 6 years and 30K on the welded repair and the glued repairs on other's cars of a 3+ years at probably 15K yearly both methods without either problems or evidence of potential failure.

The repair parts from MB, used to be about $50for the perch alone and $230 for the larger perch/panel combo, the first time I did this I cut an oversize section from a rust free chassis and then trimmed it reducing it to a single layer of sheet steel with the perch attached.

[TheDon]

Originally Posted by Billybob

itself or whether the perch and sheet metal repair part is required.

I've done the job two ways, scab the plate perch over the rusted section, welding around the edges and numerous through holes in between, seal it up with undercoat. As this was welded, the areas exposed within the engine compartment where cleaned primed and painted after the welding heat destroyed the original paint, and the area inside the chassis box frame was douched with Wurth's yellow waxoyl product to rust proof that area.

what did you use for adhesive? At the shop I work at when we need to permanently bond two materials together forever we use MAXIM #12. I broke two caulk guns trying to get it through the mixing nozzle

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by TheDon

what did you use for adhesive? At the shop I work at when we need to permanently bond two materials together forever we use MAXIM #12. I broke two caulk guns trying to get it through the mixing nozzle

I don't have any laying around at the moment so I can't give you a name or a brand right now, I got it through and used the double barrel gun from a "body guy" friend of mine. I'll try to get the brand and the source info from him. It might even be something from NAPA as I know he uses alot of materials from them, the stuff costs about $50 for double tube setup of about 16 oz. total volume or so as I recall.

[Jim B.]

The true problem with this vehicle is that it is the horrible nightmarish 4Matic AWD.

STAY AWAY from all such wagons unless you enjoy the feeling of getting a complete wallet flush.


Over and over.

[PaulC]

"This vehicle will need the spring perches re-welded as they have started to separate from the body. Otherwise, this car is very nice."

i.e., "Other than suffering a gunshot wound to the head, President Lincoln really enjoyed the play."

Too bad, the car is a looker.

[cmbdiesel]

Originally Posted by TheDon

what did you use for adhesive? At the shop I work at when we need to permanently bond two materials together forever we use MAXIM #12. I broke two caulk guns trying to get it through the mixing nozzle

I use 3M 8115 Panel Bond adhesive. Never found anything better. Does require a special gun.

[cmbdiesel]

Originally Posted by PaulC

"This vehicle will need the spring perches re-welded as they have started to separate from the body. Otherwise, this car is very nice."

i.e., "Other than suffering a gunshot wound to the head, President Lincoln really enjoyed the play."

Too bad, the car is a looker.

Well, to a guy with the right skill set, that gunshot is merely a flesh wound...