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#1
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Impact driver ratings, max torque vs working torque
I am in the market for a cordless impact driver, and I am learning (the hard way) that the max ratings on the tag aren't worth anything. It seems what you really need to know is the "working" torque, or the "breakaway" torque, which they do not specify. For example, an impact driver with a max torque rating of 200 lb ft cannot loosten a bolt that is at 200 lb ft, nor can it tighten one that tight. In fact it can only tighten to about 1/4 of that rating. Does anyone have any expertise on this issue? I am hoping to find one that can do lug bolts at about 80 lb ft, for around $200.00. It seems it is only a dream however.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#2
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1st rule of Mercedes Ownereship
1.Thou shalt not EVEN approach Lug Bolts with any sort of Impact Device.
1a.If it's too much trouble to Properly Torque 20 Lug Bolts(With a Torque Wrench), sell the Mercedes to someone who CAN and just buy a Hyundai.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#3
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Just want to loosten them.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#4
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Be extremely careful if they are really on there THAT tight. Maybe try some penetrating oil. If it breaks off in the hub you'll have a crappy weekend. Someone brought me a 1998 C230 with lugs that had been impacted on, I took it back the Mr. Tire that practically welded them on and had them loosen them because it was so obnoxious, and if they broke it would be their problem.
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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#5
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My advice, after 67 years, 55 of those messing with mechanics, is to stay away from any kind of battery operated tool. They are handy but costly in the long run. I have worked all around the world, in the deserts of Arabia and the outback of Oz., and have rarely been in a position where I needed a battery operated tool.
My suggestion if you need an impact wrench is a 1/2 in. Ingersoll electric. They don't have the brute force of an air wrench but then in real life one rarely needs that kind of force. If so, that is the reason god made cheater pipes. You also don't have the cost of purchase and operation of an air compressor. You may already have a compressor but you can run an electric impact for a month on what it costs you to run a compressor for a day. My Ingersoll is probably 30 years old and I have repaired it once. Any bolt/nut can be run down to the limit of the Ingersoll and the finished off with a torque wrench. |
#6
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Quote:
How bulky is that electric unit?
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#7
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Go to a store that sells tools and feel one. As I said, I don't doubt the advantage of a battery tool in some applications, but the overall cost through the life of the tool does not appeal to me. I have worked in industry for many many years and I look for the reliability in tools far more than the convenience.
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#8
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Quote:
However, sometimes a Milwaukee cordless 3/4" drive comes in handy. I have used it to run off lug bolts which I had loosened using generous doses of MAPP-gas heat and a 36" bar, CAREFULLY leveraged to avoid breaking anything/. The impact is handy for keeping you from getting tired doing the bull work, then using strength in properly measured doses to TORQUE precisely. I am looking for a Milwaulkee, but their advertisements and marketing are very confusing between types of batteries and chargers
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#9
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28V Milwaukee 3/4" impact gun
Quote:
Ford truck in pouring rain next to nasty inner city interstate. Loved it as 3 squirts of KROIL on each lug nut and a charged battery got all 5 nuts off and I was outa the hood in 15 min. MB 300E I used it to pull the wheels after liberal squirts of KROIL but did not slam it on/off as I had no desire to snap a bolt. PT Cruiser same tire change in the hood (1/4 mile from Ford truck flat) and it ate 1 wheel stud (snapped that sucker off quicker than a matchstick) even after KROIL. (well 1/2 tha parts are prolly Chinese!). For use around the house (driving fence bolts and anchors into foundation) its quite good. For freeing up rusty bolts that you don't care about it is OK but trashes most grade 5 bolts. Very good on grade 8 bolts. Battery life is OK but 2 or 3 batterys is best bet but they ain't cheap. If I have the choice and 110V electric I will use my Dewalt 290 3/4" drive impact. It is good all around but it DOES NOT like working on a generator that is not a square wave voltage regulated machine (any Harbor Freight/Cambell Hausefield POS) Honda's and Lincoln/Miller, etc it works just fine. I had IR Electric w/ skinny all metal body but it was wimpy on tought stuff. |
#10
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Get a torque multiplier and ditch the cheater bars.
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MB-less |
#11
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Exactly... and I think I will take Kip's advice and go corded. Just don't really need to be cordless. Looking at a DeWalt rated at 345 lbft. Should be good enough.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
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