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#1
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Non Mercedes Car Question
I recently put new front brakes pads on my moms Chevy Equinox. Now while braking under 30 mph the car shakes.. Could the front rotors be warped?
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#2
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Did it shake before you replaced the pads?
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg |
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#3
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No it did not
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#4
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Quote:
Didja bleed the brakes?
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'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert |
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#5
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don't need to bleed the brakes,you need to take the rotors off and have them turned or buy new ones and torque the wheels back on.yes you warped them either by not tightening in sequence or sometimes they just warp for no good reason.my vw is good for that.they can be just fine and i go to rotate the tires.i'll start off at 45lbs,then 65 then 85 then 105.and sometimes they will still warp.cheap crap anyway.never had near these problems 25yrs ago
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#6
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Quote:
![]() We don't know anything about his R & Ring is why I asked. If he did not bleed the brakes after opening the system - shaky (pulsating) brake pedal is symptomatic of not bleeding the brakes. I find (among other things) that non-trained brake pad changers do not bleed the brakes. A huge mistake, IMEO! ![]() Unless I am uninformed, I did not know that Don was an "ASE trained/certified brake-job mechanic." ![]() I learned to do brake jobs from my Father 30+ years ago. We mechaniced a lot on all our family cars. I learned a lot from my Dad, that I carried forward when mechanicing on my lawn mowers, tractors, motorcycles and cars over the years!
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'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert Last edited by Skid Row Joe; 03-30-2011 at 01:18 AM. |
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#7
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What I always do with new pads after I installed them: I go for a ride, take the car up to 40mph after I reached 40mph I gentle brake 'till I'm back to 10 mph go of the breaks and bring the speed back to 40mph without coming to a stop and do the same thing for at least another 10 times. This will set the pads correctly and avoid warping in the future.
Not saying your rotors are warped, It could be but maybe the break pads are not sitting right.
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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue). |
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#8
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My vote is warped rotors. I would go onto advance auto's website, and use one of their MANY online discounts. On a GM, stick with mid to high grade parts. The cheap crap is a cheap knock off, of already crappy parts... Dont waste your time.
No need to bleed the brakes after a pad and rotor job, but it will NOT hurt to change out the fluid. Its a 5 year 100k scheduled item, but, no reason not to go sooner. Also, the equinoxi? are known for control arm bushings pulling out, dead outer tie rod ends, bad sway bar bushings and links, and bad wheel bearings. Across the board a GM problem. Luckily, since it's a GM, parts are cheap. Wheel bearings take 30 min, and are 1 nut and three bolts (axle nut, and 3 15mm bolts, accessed through a hole in the hub) If you didnt already, I suggest when you take it apart take a wire wheel to the brake pad slides and applying brake grease to them. Its a very easy rig to work on, and reasonably cheap to fix. ~Nate
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
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#9
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the rear wheel bearing on the right side is going.
I guess I will price out new rotors... Hopefully cheap |
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#10
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When you install new brakes you need to bed the new brakes. Google brake bedding. If you don't bed the brakes you will end up with the shake you described.
Peter |
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#11
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The front brakes on my Silverado are crap, I have had very good look with Carquest rotors and pads. I bought the better ones and they were pretty cheap, 15k miles later they seem to be doing well.
GM screwed up all the 1/2 ton brakes, to light so the rotors warp all the time. 3/4 ton and up brakes last forever.
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1969 280SE 2027 Ram 1500 2026 Genesis GV70 2007 Tiara 3200 1988 Egg Harbor 37 1981 Boston Whaler 17 |
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#12
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I've done brake pads on my mercedes and have never had to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads.
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#13
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The only time you really need to bleed brakes is if the fuid system was opened and the brake pedal was pumped (or if a hydrolic part was replace, ei caliper, MC, brake line, etc.). If you are just doing pads/rotor/bearing etc, there is no need.
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1989 300E 144K |
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#14
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Quote:
Not bleed the brakes, but "bed" them. |
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#15
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Ah, well I guess I will try this "bedding" method. I guess I never noticed it with my car.
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