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#1
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OT: Is it possible to undo a lift job on a PU?
I'm looking at a very good buy on an older Toyota PU. It's only real flaw in my opinion is it has a 3 inch lift. I detest lifted trucks. Is it inexpensively possible to unlift a lifted truck?
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You're a daisy if you do. __________________________________ 84 Euro 240D 4spd. 220.5k sold 04 Honda Element AWD 1985 F150 XLT 4x4, 351W with 270k miles, hay hauler 1997 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4 1993 Toyota 4wd Pickup 226K and counting |
#2
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Naturally being a car guy, I spend a good deal of time there. Most everything that is done to these vehicles-can be undone-as 'bolt on' is the standard practise. From my experiance with lift kits (Had an 86 Ramcharger) that was lifted, the suspention should be able to be unbolted. Do you plan to find OEM parts from a salvage yard-or but new from the dealer? Your primary concern , is if the current owner modified the driveshaft-steering mechanism. If not, you should be able to get it back to stock very easily.
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CHILCUTT~ The secret to a long life. Is knowing when it is time to leave. |
#3
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easy fix usually, I'm assuming that is solid axle front? Irs can be undone too, but it's is a little more involved sometimes. Heres the cool thing: usually a deal like this couldmake you money or be revenue neutral if you do your own wrenching. Find someone who wants to lift their truck and swap out stock for lifted. Maybe get a little extra cash too. Then you have their springs n such and they have a lift. All in a weekends work.
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#4
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Quote:
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CHILCUTT~ The secret to a long life. Is knowing when it is time to leave. |
#5
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Quote:
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You're a daisy if you do. __________________________________ 84 Euro 240D 4spd. 220.5k sold 04 Honda Element AWD 1985 F150 XLT 4x4, 351W with 270k miles, hay hauler 1997 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4 1993 Toyota 4wd Pickup 226K and counting |
#6
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Not hard at all, depending on how its lifted it could be as easy as removing some blocks.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#7
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Especially if it was built for "show" rather than "go." Could be blocks in the rear and springs in the front. OTOH, at least 3" isn't a ridiculous lift if you didn't want to get too involved with it and the rest of the truck is in nice shape.
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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15 '06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod) |
#8
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1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ... 1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold) 2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp 1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k 2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold) |
#9
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If you undo the u-bolts holding the axles to the springs, be sure to re-torque them after 50-100 miles. Little buggers like to work loose.
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#10
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actually, the recomended way when changing springs is to replace the u bolts. the little guys stretch and suffer thread distortion, so one should always replace them when doing a spring job. they are cheap, cheaper than crash repair.
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