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  #1  
Old 06-05-2011, 03:40 PM
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No ignition. Volvo 240

No start problem. I used an inline spark tester-

between:
1. ignition wires and plugs - no spark
2. ignition coil to ignition wire- no spark

i replaced it with a known good coil and still no spark.

the Bentley manual says 'check the inline fuse on the left front fender to see if blown' but does not have a picture.

question- left front fender is the driver's side fender?

where else can i look to solve this problem?

ps- this is why I love diesels. no ignition issues. ugh

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  #2  
Old 06-05-2011, 05:58 PM
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Check your pm Ben.
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  #3  
Old 06-06-2011, 02:02 AM
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I used to have a few Volvo 240s (and a Diesel one too). I think there is a fuse of some sort on the drivers side, up near the edge, just before the wheel well (a 30a blade type fuse?) that I remember having some issues with. If I recall, it wasn't just the fuse but the contacts that it plugged into got loose or broken or corroded or something. I think there was an issue with draining water contributing to the deterioration, or something like that.

Also, my landlord put new points and condenser in his old 60's Chevy today to solve a "break-up" under load problem. After he was done the car wouldn't start. It was the same as you describe, no juice flowing through the wires (as per an induction tester). At first we suspected the coil or the ballast resistor, but after checking a few things with an ohmmeter we found that the coil wire was failing. It got a high resistance reading when there should be virtually none. Put a new coil wire on it and it started right up.

It's was quick and easy to check and it saved him the expense of a new coil and resistor (and still having the problem).
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  #4  
Old 06-06-2011, 03:36 AM
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Its mounted to the inner finder under the hood just head of the strut tower on the driver's side. I had an 89.
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  #5  
Old 06-06-2011, 10:12 AM
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Several possibilities

1) Pre 1992 - Behind the Battery there is a wiring block that is fileld with dielectric grease. Remove cover and refill.

2) Pre 1993 - Inner fuse rail between battery and shock tower in line with bolts holding fender to car. As shown in previous post diagram, A GM style fuse holder. Remove and replace ENTIRE fuse holder with same from Radio Shack (one with waterproof cover).
Also check the connection at the POS battery terminal for break/corrosion.

3) Check the engine head/block braided wire loom to the firewall connection for break or corrosion.
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  #6  
Old 08-19-2011, 07:42 AM
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It turned out to be the crank position sensor. It was a $50 part.

Thanks to all who responded.
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Old 08-19-2011, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benhogan View Post
It turned out to be the crank position sensor. It was a $50 part.

Thanks to all who responded.
Did you install the CPS yourself?
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by The Clk Man View Post
Did you install the CPS yourself?
yes and it was difficult because the sensor attached to the top of the transmission bellhousing between the block and the firewall. i was basically working blind with just my fingers.
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  #9  
Old 08-19-2011, 04:31 PM
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yes and it was difficult because the sensor attached to the top of the transmission bellhousing between the block and the firewall. i was basically working blind with just my fingers.
I had the same problem with my clk 320, but once you got use to not being able to see it wasn't so bad.

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