So my neighbor backed into my Volvo 780 Bertone. Damage was done to the door and quarter panel. I get to talk to the adjuster this week, and have a good ideas as to who is going to work on it and what needs to be done. Their idea is likely going to be different, so any advace from those who have been there would be welcome.

You are always free to get your own estimates; take your own pictures, lots of them; check what parts are being used, whether they are OEM or "OEM-Like" particularly sheetmetal or lighting units. Consider whether your car will suffer a reduction in value due to the style of repair.

With the 780 you are mostly out of luck. Got rear ended two years ago with my 780; they totaled it and it got a salvage title. Insurance company gave me $1350 and I bought the car back for $300. With all the DMV fees, light inspection fee ($125), smoke check and the repairs and parts itself (sheet metal repair only cost me $400) I was around $200 in the hole.

Good luck.

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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

I usually come out just fine when I have insurance claims.

The adjuster's job is to get you to settle for as little as possible, so don't take the first offer unless you think it is very fair. I have done that once or twice. Usually I need to negotiate a bit with them to get the deal I want. He is not an evil person, just a person with a job to do. If you want a good settlement you have to be prepared to help him do it.

They might show you a list of prices of similar cars for sale. You need to take that list and show why yours is worth more. You can make your own list.

If it is a case where somebody hit you and it is their insurance you are entitiled to cost of rental cars, etc.

It all adds up.

Then I usually get them to write the check to me. If I want to supply some of the parts for the repair I can usually help myself out.

On an older car a salvage title is not a huge detriment to resale. People look at it and think if it will work for them or not.

The adjuster will need something in his file to justify what he pays you so provide it and be polite but persistant and you usually will come out fine.

I usually come out with either extra money or get something or other fixed that was not part of the accident or a new overall paint job.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

If you feel an adjuster is being unreasonable. Phone the insurance company and ask for another based on that. The stratagy being they do not want to pay two adjusters for one claim...

The insurance company may tell the first adjuster to get the job done. Or by mentioning to the adjuster first that you may want to deal with someone else may motivate him as well. Tell him it is nothing personal you just do not feel comforatable with his assesment or offer on the situation.

I have come to believe the amount of work given to the individual adjuster is based on their ability to lowball many situations successfully. The higher the percentage of claims settled for less than they should have with no complications the more work an independant adjuster may get.

That gives them a reserve to pay more in a some cases. As Tom says diplomacy through all this is a factor.

I have a healthy dislike for the insurance system. Basically all I want is to come out whole from a situation. A little better than whole does not hurt either. No way am I going to take a beating from them if I had absolutly no percentage fault in a given situation.

Pressure the idiot into making you whole himself. He's your neighbor, therefore he has to live next to you, and you can make his life unpleasant

I dont know about Cali, but the last claim I had in Ohio they tried to lowball me. I said no. they have a certain amount of time and they then have to settle. if you wait them out they get more reasonable. tell them you want a rental car until they settle, that will also motivate them. make sure the car is clean and well kept looking, if it isnt already, tell them you planned to have this car a long long time and that it has collector value to you, whatever you can to make a case you want this car fixed right.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

I would go to your preferred body shop and get a quote first before doing anything else. That way, you can have something to talk about instead of him giving you his numbers. Once you have that in hand, check the value of the car to see if it will be totaled or not. If your shop says the cost is $1000 and the value of the car is $1200, you know they will want to total it. At which point you can make the decision easier than without knowing.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

Don’t immediately presume that the insurance company will try and lowball you. My car got totaled recently (not my fault) and the other party’s car insurance provider gave me a great price for it without any hassle. They actually gave me more than I expected to get.