My neighbor/farmer has a 1960 International TD-9 bulldozer that needs new drive clutches (or so he says). The unit has been sitting up for a few years. I am thinking of providing labor to change them out for use of the bulldozer. He provided a 5" thick printed manual that goes through the procedure. From what I can tell the hardest part is going to be to get the drive axles up off the ground where we can turn it.

Anyone ever done one similar? Looks pretty straight forward and parts seem to be available for it.

Anyone want to guess what is quite unique in regards to the engine installed in this thing?

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Jim

Hmm...it doesnt have a carberator??

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1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
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1984 123 200
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I'm sure you could handle it. Do you have a good 3/4 drive socket set, or better yet a 1" drive impact wrench and sockets?

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

It has a diesel engine with a carburetor. Up to the late 50s, TDs started on gasoline and ran on diesel.

Dunno about you but I went into heavy equipment repair out here at the farm thinking: "Hey, no prob, if I can fix Mercedes and I can fix a washing machine, I can sure as hell fix a bulldozer. And, to some degree, I was right.

What I wasn't mentally prepared for was 1) you need significantly bigger tools and 2) you'll need some way to support, lift and move heavy parts/assemblies...

I have a little 40hp Komatsu dozer that I've had to do various things on over the years and they're physically challenging to work on. There's no place good to stand if you're pulling service on the engine, underneath is a tight fit, the hydraulic hoses and lines are hard to get to and on top of that, everything is HEAVY! Especially on a TD-9 which is going to weigh at least 18,000lbs.

Yellow iron is nothing like a car. I'm sure you can fix it but be prepared.

Also, you should check out this forum: Heavy Equipment Forums

There are some people that really know their stuff on that site.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

50 cookies for R Leo.

The manual I was studying showed an engine that starts on gasoline and then runs on diesel. I went and got a closer look at the unit today and it is not the same engine. The one that is in it is an in-line turbo diesel 6 cylinder. It would be neat to have that engine in a full size Ford or Chebby truck. Anyway, I discussed it with my neighbor and we've got to come up with a good place to work in it. The hardest part is going to get it up off the ground. We've got other equipment that we can move the heavy stuff around with (and NO it isn't an oak tree).

Here are a few pictures.

Now to see how keen everyone is in regards to details there are three things different between the 1995 E300 and the way it came off the show room floor and all three are visible if reviewed closely.

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Jim

Yeah, as you guys said, probably the biggest problem is just handling such massive parts.

While my career was on the wane a few years ago I worked in a big plant Fork Truck shop for a little over a year. We had a HUGE gantry crane in the shop that covered about a 30 by 200 feet area. Without it, some of the work would have been nearly impossible. With it, many jobs turned into super simple R&R work.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

i used to have a d2 cat which i replaced the drive clutches.first you need to find the master link in the track.my cat all the links were sealed except for the master.it had a tapered pin that was tapped on the end with 3/8 fine threads.i used a big socket that fit over it and ran a bolt thru the socket and screwed it in,and i had to heat the piss out of it.then after that came out you have to go on the inside of the track and do the same.when i did this i had the master on the top of the front sprocket.when they separate roll the track to the back and lay it out behind it.then you have to get the track frame off.mine had a big shaft that it pivoted on right in front of the finals.there was a cover on the end of the shaft and a big bolt if i remember right.i had to remove that and then lift under the trans to take pressure off the shaft.then i slide the whole track and frame out to the side and when it cleared the shaft i rolled the track frame clear to the back of the track,then rolled the track up on top of it.track and frame now out of the way
next on my cat it was just a matter of loosening the bolts holding the final housing and then get a cherry picker in there bolt it up and lift and slide it out to the side.
now is the fun part as these clutches get nasty with dust and grease build-up from 50 yrs of use.mine had like 6 big bolts to remove the whole clutch pack from the shaft then the clutch pack consisted of like 12 compressed valve springs holding them together.i had to make a special tool for this too.then when you get it apart you have to find new clutch plates.on my cat i just took em to cat and they relined em but i can't say what IH uses.

Thanks catmandoo62. The manual goes over everything in good detail. It is going to depend if we have a good place to work on it or not. I got to looking at my tools and I'm more geared up for import repair versus small doziers. I don't have 1" impact nor the sockets. If I take it on it will probably take a while. I'm going to go look at it again.

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Jim

Evidently you don't have any Bologna either.

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Better see if Liquid Wrench is available in 55-gallon drums...

LOL

I've already thought about that.

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Jim

Digging into a piece of old yellow iron will take deep pockets and patience. If you think your time at home is worth anything at all, you may be much better off in the long haul to hire a dozer service come do whatever it is you need done, provided it is a one shot project. Only you can decide on that.

FWIW, mine is going to need steering brakes in the not too distant future and, the rails and pins are pretty much shot so an undercarriage is out there too. But, I'll wait until I have my shop finished before digging into that.

But, I use the little dozer a lot around the farm to push brush into burn piles and then tend the fires when I burn them: no worries about flats or burnt up tires and, I'll probably keep it going as long as I can for that very reason.

This place is nothing but trees that fall down in pastures and on fences and the only equipment I have that can begin to move a 30' long, 24" diameter post oak trunk is that dozer. I'm no longer man enough to handle the saw that's needed to buck those sort of trunks into manageable lengths but I've sure as hell become an expert at getting a trunk centered on that dozer blade and shoving it across the pasture to a burn pile.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

There is a mightyfine brush cab on that unit.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Right now I am using a chain saw, a Kubota tractor with a bucket and either a back hoe or rotary mower to take down dead trees, cut them up and clean underbrush. I typically go through and cut the larger stuff down with a chain saw then drive through with the bucket low and the rotary going. I'm trying to set up paths around the blueberry bushes to allow us to get to them.

I've attached a pic of the size of the log I'm able to handle. I'll have a burn pile going anytime after we have had some rain. My goal this year is to get all the dead trees out of the yard. The dozier would make the job alot easier to clean out around the blueberry bushes.

It would probably be cheaper and quicker just to rent one for what I'm trying to do right now.

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Jim