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Sailors opinions
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My Ranger 33 was destroyed last year. It was a 33' fin keel spade rudder boat. Been looking to replace it with a large trailerable boat. Not really concerned with the ability to trailer launch it as I am with transporting it overland to different cruising areas as opposed to sailing to them. I have a 21 Sea Pearl Trimaran for beach cruising in protected waters. I'm interested in a bluewater capable boat which would be secure on the Great Lakes, Bahamas, Baja etc. What are people's opinions on fin keel/spade rudder monohulls vs. full keel/keel hung rudders. I realize the traditional keel boat will be somewhat slower and more difficult to manoever in tight quarters. Here's a picture of one I'm considering.
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I owned a '68 C & C Redwing, 30' long and fast.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3067/3...bd85837b_o.jpg There are still lot's of then on the water. http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews...ng30revp01.jpg More pictures @ Review - 30 Redwing |
Full keel vs. fin keel? How much do you value speed and "feel" on the wheel or tiller? A fin keel boat basically pivots around the keel, and having that separate rudder really helps it do so. A full keel will feel much more truck-like while sailing, slower to respond to the helm. Full keel boats are going to be slower in general with more wetted surface, etc., but they may be less tender, depending on the design.
Also, backing will be less easy with a full keel, if it matters to you. I don't think you have to worry about seaworthiness, so to speak, with a fin keel, as long as you have a decent make of boat. Construction matters more than configuration. All the above are my opinions, formed with a lot of blue water and brown water under various keels. And I'm talking cruising boats - not crazy racing boats with "fin" keels. Rgds, Chris W. '95 E300D Once had about 20 minutes at the helm of "Constellation" (early 12 meter America's Cup winner) for a team building event several years ago, and she drove like an absolute pig, my expectations were crushed! Relatively tiny rudder with big full keel = SLOW SLOW response. |
Sailing is about time and time sailing is a blur when past. The boat is probably best chosen by its accommodations for what you remember while on it and not by its sailing characteristics.
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Visited the boat last week and decided to purchase it. It's in good condition and thoughtfully built. Originally sold as a kit boat but never completely finished until bought by the current owner who is a boat builder and boat repairer. He gutted and refinished using the wisdom of a man who works on older boats all the time. I liked his thinking. Has a cylinder 12hp Westerbeke diesel with only 470 hrs that he installed.
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One half dozen or the other, it depends what you want. Full keel boats are trucks, but if your going offshore one design doesn't really have any advantages over the other.
Buy on quality, one heck of a bargain if you can stand an ugly as sin boat are the Contest's. No many people know them in this country so you can pick them up for a song, and they are not very pretty, nor do they sail all that great. But they are built like tanks and I'd trust one in a blow, they are a North Sea boat. Construction wise they are no different than a Swan or Rassy, but you can pick them up for the price of something lame. |
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http://www.cape-horn-eng.com/imagene...08-01-W600.jpg I'm into any kind of boat that floats. |
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It's a Voyager 26. Similar to a Cape Dory but a different company. I don't think the Cape Dories had canoe sterns. Some were sold initially as kit boats. This is one of them. Hull made in 83 but not fully completed by the current owner until 2003. Trailer is a 96. Relatively new manual windless with that anchor and 150' of chain too.
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Heard of Voyager but I have never sailed or worked on one. Is the hull and deck solid or cored?
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Hull solid deck cored according to what I read. Don't know what the deck core is. Very strong boat. Talked to an owner who spent 12 hours stuck on a coral reef being hammered all night by rough seas. Had the boat hauled to check it out and only had some cosmetic damage to the rudder. This one is a minimalist version. Head and holding tank with pump out and macerator for sending overboard. Fresh water tank. Ice box. No installed stove. No 120 volt. Dual battery 12 volt system with depth sounder. Not much to go wrong.
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Deck core is marine plywood. Core does not extend to the edge of the deck. Edges are solid fiberglass so no rot possible around the stanchions.
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Got Safari in the water about a week ago. Only had a chance to sail her once due to inclement weather but it sails very well. Engine is nice. Given it's reputation as being unable to back up, I tried using a 'manual bow thruster' (one of my rafting oars hung off the bow--a rudder in reverse). Works very well:) Will only get a few days of sailing in this year.
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