The family and I are in the process of rebuilding my father in laws boat and trailer. Basically it has been sitting for 13 years and we are just trying to get it up to snuff. I set the wife up to do some fiberglass patching and I have started on the trailer.

Anyway, all the wheel bearings were in order as well as tires and wheels. When installing the wheel bearings how much do you torque the hub nut on initial installation?

I know you are supposed to torque it to seat the bearings and then back off until there is minimal drag. I have done this before with success just going by feel but I just read an article somewhere (been trying to search for it again) where it said the initial torque value to seat bearings seemed outrageous.

Am I safe with original plan of just tightening to snug and then backing off so the assembly spins freely and insert cotter pin?

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

I do. also can loosen til there is slight play then tightrn til the play is gone.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Sounds right to me. You don't want it so loose that it wobbles, nor so tight that it binds and generates heat. It is a trailer; not an F1 racer.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

That's what I would do.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

On non tapered bearing you want to tighten to seat the bearing then back it off to where rolling resisitance is not hampered.

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Where torque specs are supplied, they are manufacturer-and-application specific. I wouldn't try using them for generic tapered roller bearings.

Assuming they are thoroughly packed, then load them snug, rotate the wheel a couple of times (if it is very hard to rotate, that's too snug!) and then back them off and adjust for minimal free play and smooth rolling.

It may be advisable to install the seals backwards, as it's more important to keep water out than it is to keep the grease in. If you use Bearing Buddies, this will allow the bearings to be purged with a grease gun.