Oil viscosity/temp question & oil vacuum drainer thingy - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

davidmash · #1 10-30-2012, 12:28 PM

I bought a oil vacuum thing to get oil out of the dip stick. I have used it once and it was a utter failure. The hose that goes down the dip stick is fairly thin (straw like). I hooked it up to my compressor and let her rip. It took an hour to get two quarts out. The engine was run earlier that day but had cooled down. If it was hot would that have made a difference? I tried different pressure with the compressor and I even read the directions that came with the vac.

I'll take a picture of it in a bit as I am about to go out and change the oil again.

Thanks

JamesDean · #2 10-30-2012, 12:32 PM

I have a MityVac manual pump unit and it works well. Be sure you close any open ports on the container. I made that mistake once, I had the top cork open but not out and I couldn't figure out why it wasn't sucking my M103's oil out.

Make sure you use the largest tube that fits in your dipstick.

MTI · #3 10-30-2012, 12:42 PM

On my 2.3-16, I use the dipstick tube as the "straw" with a vacuum source (shopvac) attached to a 2 gal fuel container. Works well and cost about $10 to make. Takes about 20 min to drain the pan.

rocky raccoon · #4 10-30-2012, 01:06 PM

The dipstick tube on all Benz extends to the lowest point in the sump. It is not necessary to stick a hose down into the dipstick tube. The MityVac unit has a cork-like fitting that seals the proximal end of the dipstick tube (the flared end). This cork has a hole through the center that accepts the MityVac hose. You do not stick that hose all the way to the bottom of the sump. The full diameter of the dipstick tube is used to suction the oil. If your suction unit does not have such a seal, consider making one.

Of course, do it right after a drive even if a short one to warm the oil and get everything in the oil into suspension.

Air&Road · #5 10-30-2012, 01:16 PM

There's a plug underneath. Remove it and the oil will drain out. Use a metal drain pan and no matter what temperature the oil, it will not hurt the drain apparatus (pan.) After draining, replace plug and refill. Change oil filter while oil is draining in pan.

This tip will save you the cost of the silly Mity Vac.

Warning, this method might mess up your manicure a little, but real men don't get a manicure anyway.

JamesDean · #6 10-30-2012, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Air&Road

There's a plug underneath. Remove it and the oil will drain out. Use a metal drain pan and no matter what temperature the oil, it will not hurt the drain apparatus (pan.) After draining, replace plug and refill. Change oil filter while oil is draining in pan.

This tip will save you the cost of the silly Mity Vac.

Warning, this method might mess up your manicure a little, but real men don't get a manicure anyway.

I more concerned about my pedicure. I just got that done this past weekend.

BAVBMW · #7 10-30-2012, 01:27 PM

Yes, the oil temp will make a huge difference. You want the oil as hot as can be. Usually 10-15 minutes of driving will accomplish this. Sitting at idle doesn't get it as hot, go ahead and drive it.

This of course, all assumes that your vacuum device is working correctly.

And Larry, be careful, not all vehicles recommend draining it out the bottom. Not to mention all the stuff that is in the way on a modern vehicle.

MV

Air&Road · #8 10-30-2012, 02:10 PM

I've yet to find anything in the way of getting at the drain plug. I've had a few MB's with a hush panel, but an 8MM socket on a ratchet with a short extension will have that thing out of the way in less than two minutes, and go back on in two minutes.

The "designed for an overhead change" argument has been beaten absolutely into the ground on this forum. For the dealerships with the equipment they have, it's the only way to go, but I have yet to see an MB design that PREVENTS drain plug service.

BAVBMW · #9 10-30-2012, 02:44 PM

The ML comes to mind. It is very difficult to drain the oil by the plug without getting it all over some rubber suspension components. There are others where oil can get where it needn't be, but the ML's are a easy example.

I don't really care myself how one changes their oil, or if they do. I feel that either way is acceptable, and will admit that from the top is cleaner. The manufacturer approves, and recommends this method, so feel free. I do know that the hotter the oil, the better.

MV

Air&Road · #10 10-30-2012, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BAVBMW

The ML comes to mind. It is very difficult to drain the oil by the plug without getting it all over some rubber suspension components. There are others where oil can get where it needn't be, but the ML's are a easy example.

I don't really care myself how one changes their oil, or if they do. I feel that either way is acceptable, and will admit that from the top is cleaner. The manufacturer approves, and recommends this method, so feel free. I do know that the hotter the oil, the better.

MV

I couldn't agree more about oil temp. I also drain overnight to get as much sludge as possible.

I too don't care how people choose to change it, although I DO recommend that they change it, but it's their car, they can see how far it will go on the factory oil for all I care. I just think that for the DIYer to lay out a bunch of money for a gadget because their hands are too tender to come in contact with a little hot oil, when they most likely have everything they need in their tool box is absolutely silly.

As far as oil on suspension components, I rarely go under a car without a shop towel at the ready.

BAVBMW · #11 10-30-2012, 03:00 PM

Personally, I prefer to have the oil good and hot, then let it drain overnight. But for obvious reasons, this doesn't work for most people. If I'm concerned about sludge, flushing might be an option.

MV

Air&Road · #12 10-30-2012, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BAVBMW

Personally, I prefer to have the oil good and hot, then let it drain overnight. But for obvious reasons, this doesn't work for most people. If I'm concerned about sludge, flushing might be an option.

MV

I am the first to admit that today my hot, overnight oil changes are overkill unless you are trying to catch up on an engine that has been neglected. My thinking is a holdover from the sixties and even the seventies when the oils we had we're TERRIBLE for sludging up an engine if not dealt with often and correctly.

I think that today, if the engine is hot, an hour of draining is probably almost as good as overnight.

Dudesky · #13 10-30-2012, 03:39 PM

So after all the antiseptic siphoning of the oil, how do you get around oil on your hands pulling the oil filter.

Real mechanics use disposable latex gloves and the drain plug.

davidmash · #14 10-30-2012, 03:49 PM

I got one of these a while back. Tried it once and it did not work well at all. Tried it again (I think it is defective) but still no lock. The suction is horrible. It will barely suck a plastic bag. I saw the oil going up the hose but at this rate I'll be retired before it drains the pan. I just really did not want to get under the car. My back has been screwed up since I got rear ended several years back and it's just a PIA. OH well. Guess I'll do it the old fashioned way and bring the Thorsen back nest time I go in.

Dudesky · #15 10-30-2012, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidmash

I got one of these a while back. Tried it once and it did not work well at all. Tried it again (I think it is defective) but still no lock. The suction is horrible. It will barely suck a plastic bag. I saw the oil going up the hose but at this rate I'll be retired before it drains the pan. I just really did not want to get under the car. My back has been screwed up since I got rear ended several years back and it's just a PIA. OH well. Guess I'll do it the old fashioned way and bring the Thorsen back nest time I go in.

5 minute oil change then and watch when they put the drain nut on.