Moving a non-running antique (1936) car ...
 

My dad has a 1936 Chrysler Airflow that has been sitting in his garage for over 20 years. It sat quite a bit before that in a shed before being moved into its current spot. It was running (using a bottle of gas rather than the tank) at that time but obviously would take some work to get running again. His garage is dark and has no space to work, so I was hoping to move it to my garage. The problem is, I have no idea how to get it there. I hesitate to just call a regular tow company ... the car isn't worth a ton in its present state, but I'd hate to have someone drag it by the wrong part or dent something I definitely am not going to find a replacement for at a junkyard. The car is very restorable I'd like to keep it that way. Anyone have any advice on how to find someone to tow this car carefully for the 10 miles to my house? When I Google the topic I find shippers that seem to be focused on longer distances. Unfortunatly I don't have a local friend with a trailer, and I'm not sure I'd know how to load it on there safely even if I did. Thoughts? I would love to get this thing into the light and see what it needs.

Hire a flatbed towing service?

Get the brakes loose if any are seized first. Plus the tires inflated if down. Then towbar or whatever.

If you have a large enough vehicle, uhaul flatbed trailer. Eliminates the worry of towing it flat with a tow bar and you'd be moving it so you can do it carefully if you have the time/patience

I don't think a long wheelbase low car like that would clear ramps on a regular trailer. My 41 Buick Super 8 coupe wouldn't.

Flatbed is the only way. They are professionals and don't want to damage your car either. Its their responsibility if they do.

That actually just crossed my mind after I started looking at the UHaul trailer. The car is pretty long and low. The driver of the flatbed that took my 300D home after its accident last year seemed pretty meticulous ... if I'm lucky maybe I can find where I put the company card and her name.

I agree on the flatbed. I'd want to be there when they hook onto it though. They're less likely to damage it than you doing it yourself, probably.

If it's a short distance, use a tow bar. That's the advantage of the old cars, they have enough bumper and a strong enough one, to hook a tow bar to.

If you DO call a towing service, as mentioned in the thread, make sure they use a roll back.

roll-back,tiltbed etc.alot of the reason they are so meticulous is the dept of transportation,at least here in iowa.they pull you over for no reason whatsoever and they find just one chain not hooked correctly you get fined.

Flatbed best way
 

When I had my car's new engine installed, I flatbedded it from here to Los Angeles about 500 miles away.


It was very carefully unloaded ..it was a lowered car too. Like your Airflow is low to the ground also.

http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r...i-DSC00823.jpg


This was the hardest part -- where the angle of the flatbed changes and you risk a scrape....... but it worked out fine as you can see!


http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r...i-DSC00827.jpg


Then, since I'd paid well and noticed we'd be going home unloaded, I made him go to San Diego and pick up a 1987 Mercury Colony Park I found on C/L to buy and fix up.

We went to the USMC base at Camp Pendleton and brought it all the way back up here.

http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r...i-DSC00837.jpg


http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r...i-DSC00840.jpg


Much later- both of them seen at my house up here

http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r...1/SAM_0175.jpg


http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r...1/SAM_0176.jpg

I have done this on numerous occasions with great results. Never seen anything I couldn't move with one. The rent for a day is not bad. Look the trailer over pretty good when you pick it up. Never had any problem but have heard others got charged for pre-existing damage.

You might have to lie about what you are moving, they have limits. Say it is for a 1968 Mustang or some very typical car like that.

You might have to lie about your tow vehicle. Say you are using one vehicle to pick up the trailer and another to tow if needed. 3/4 ton pickup is a good story.

You might have to put blocks under the ramps to clear the bottom of the car. It is worse if car has flat tires.

You might need a come along or winch to load and unload.

I have my own trailer and winch too. The winch is mounted via a receiver type hitch so I can use it on a vehicle also. We are not always in the same town but uhaul is always close by.

Tyler,
I have 8 foot long ramps on my trailer. Unless the car is less than about 2" off the ground, it will clear them.

I had my own ramps made after I paid 80.00 to rent them for a day.

It just seemed easier to always have them and the cost was 100.00 to have them welded from 1/4' steel.

The tow keys in this case are:

1. Inflate the tires, even if you have to fill them with goop.

2. make sure the brake shoes are not stuck to the drums.

If this thing has sat that long, I would consider spraying WD40 inside the drums to loosen them, then take all the hardware out and replace it later.

The last thing that you want is to have a problem with a two-wheel dolly.

You best bet is a trailer and longer ramps.

boards are your friend
 

Various length 1x6 boards or 2x6 boards are best. 2x4s can be used but it's much more difficult.

Here's some pics of me loading the 300TD onto my wagon to keep from scraping the bottom. The trailer I had was an equipment trailer and not very good for hauling cars.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2882728-post17.html

See???

Yup, 2x6's. Also, when you go to uhaul just tell them what it is-an empty chassis that you're towing. Once the word custom is in their writeup you're good to go with any combo.

A rollback\flatbed is the best method, if you cannot locate your local resource let me know. I have a service in the Philadelphia area which I have used many times.

Keep us updated.