old is a relative term, a'int it??

Pretty sure they came into vogue in the late 60's/early 70's....
I know I've seen 'em in pink, lavender and avacado....
Nothing screams 1970 like a bathroom with lavender fixtures...

How ya makin' out MS?? I'm guessing the silence means y'all are enjoying a cold hoppy beverage while basking in the glow of a job well done, if not yet entirely completed...

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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000
1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000

https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif

Project is scheduled for late this month. Spending this time asking questions, and trying to get answers. Son has a pretty good handle on it. ( All the more amazing because he is a tuba player/ professor.)

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

Plenty of time for you (or tuba player) to procure and read up on the (TCNA Handbook) RE: the portion of the remodel having to do with the flooring issues you've asked.

wouldn't give you a wet ball of snot for the TCNA book....
pretty sure MS and his son aren't morons who needs a trade commission to tell them how to tile a floor....

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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000
1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000

https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif

No disrespect for the TCNA, or their handbook, but with all the information available for free, why would I pay for a handbook? Maybe if I was going into business, but this is a one time deal.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

No disrespect, but your post #1 indicated to me that you were a perfect candidate to learn from the industry standards of the TCNA current Handbook. Much of; "the information available for free," is bad information - that's why.

If you're not interested in learning from the TCNA, then I guess you've decided to look elsewhere for your information. Good luck!

What I think he's trying to say is for ceramic tile 3/4 is not thick enough. I believe 1.5 inches (5 quarters for all you builders) is the min for 12x12 ceramic. Otherwise it will crack in no time.

Usually the original subfloor (true 1") is there and all that is needed is 1/2 cement board and you are good.

This whole statement is full of assumptions so take it with a grain of salt.

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

Well, I'm finding it's definitely amateur hour in most of the posts here. I'm not taking shots or criticizing them, nor would I - I'm just stating the facts. As an expert in the field, as TMAllison is too, I can state that with 100% certitude. Terry's post, with little variance, most resembles the materials and methods I would use. I go by-the-book, since it's the only "book" that holds-up to scrutiny forensically when push comes to shove, and where legal proceedings may be imminent.

If you can quote and reference ANSI standards, as Terry Allison and I can, and have here for years, that's where you'll find the installation methods/standards. These industry standards for ceramic tile installations, are contained within the TCNA Handbook.


If anyone wants to do 'seat of your pants' installations - that's fine with me too. I have no problem with them doing so.....

My parent's Virginia Beach home has one 1964 bathrom with lavender fixtures AND tile! (Though I recently replaced the sink with a white one)
My Alexandria home has Avocado fixtures from 1969.

I too dislike most of the fiberglass stuff. Especially those molded tub surrounds with all the joints, ledges and pockets that trap & hold water.
When part of my 1969 tub surround eventually collapsed due to failed grout and the original installer laying the tile over so-called 'waterproof' drywall, I repaired it with Durock cement-board. Then covered it with a clean, white simulated-tile ABS surround-kit thats easy to keep clean, without the thousands of brittle grout-joints that did in the old tile installation. It's been holding up well for seven years now.
I Left the 1969 avocado cast-iron Kohler tub alone. After 23 years I'm used to the color.
(Hey, I think it's much better than pink!)

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

MS, in case you really want to read through a bunch of stuff that either doesn't apply or is basic common sense, and also don't feel like paying for the privilege...

Here is a link to the 2011 TNCA handbook in .pdf format.
I know, I know.... with all the incredible advancements in tile and associated building materials having a 2 year old handbook is borderline on criminal.... but we do what we can.

2011 TNCA Handbook

Lemme know if you need to rewire an outlet, and I'll send you the NFPA 70 with arc flash....

And thirdly, the code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules. Welcome aboard the Black Pearl, Miss Turner .

__________________
On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000
1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000

https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif

Ummm, Thanks,
While we are at it, anyone have a copy of the Masonry Institute Handbook? I tossed mine a year ago, and now find myself inspecting masonry again.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

I've only taken an old tub out and the new one back in once, and that was enough. Both were cast ahrn, heavy as hell. A huge fiberglass tub/shower combo is a beeatch to get in or out - I'd stay away from that stuff. Cast iron is not hard in terms of dimensions to get in - the height is, I forget exactly, 18 or 20 inches or so and the standard is about 5 feet long. Just get some strong old boys and tip that sucker sideways - and get one heavy duty hand truck for the job.

I had to lower the one I did down some stairs from the street to the courtyard, the lady hired some macho Guatamalan to help- more muscles than brains - and halfway through I'm wondering what I'd let myself into. Beat the hell out of my back and knees stopping that thing on each step from bouncing down and crushing the guy.

I'd go with quality for the surround if possible. Here's one I just did. Travertine tile, 12x24 on the walls, 12x12 on the floor. Glad I found this job, it's some nice eye candy.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Now that's funny.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I was on a job today, reviewing the Soils report.....( Why is it that the owner pays for the Soils Report, and then no one bothers to read it?? On this job, it just cost someone a cool $1/4 million or so), and the Engineer wrote. The frost depth in Howard County is approximately 36 inches" No where have I ever seen a county have a frost depth that was "approximately " anything. It is set at 30", or 32", or 36", depending on the locale, and sometimes, the whim of the local Building Official.
The same Soils report also contained this nice little error" Moisture content to be within 3% (+/-2%)of the optimum moisture as determined by ASTM D1557" Doesn't anyone proof read this stuff?

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

If it is even older, measure the old one before you remove it. Some were six inches longer than the standard tubs that are now readily available. Ask me how I know.

My McGiver fix was to make a six inch shelf/seat at the end of the tub away from the fixtures. I was astounded to find this feature on a tub in a four star hotel I stayed at last year.

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1983 300SD "Guderian"
1987 MR2
2015 Camry
2015 Chevy Spark
2006 Hyundai Tucson