the time has come. i need to start thinking about a lift instead of laying on the ground. i see the two posts all day long used for $1000-$1500. im thinking about picking one up early next year.

as nice as a 10x14 or so slab would be, that will most likely cost more than the lift. power is a non issue.

im thinking ill put it in my back side yard. do i need to pour a slab, or can a go a few ft deep and pour a 2x2 slab to mount to?

__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

A 4" slab will work fine. Just make sure that it is a full four inches. Use a rotary hammer drill and drill all the way through the slab before inserting your lag bolts. Re torque the bolts daily for a week and weekly for a month. Re torque them every few months after that, but you will probably find them tight forever after.

Id pour a full slab. I figure no sense in having the lift while also still wriggling around in the dirt under it. Plus having a hard surface everywhere under where a car would be will pay for itself in being easily able to set up jack stands, easy rollable tranny jacks, being able to lower the lift and compress a lower control arm ect.

That hard flat surface will make a lift 10x more useful in my opinion

__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

If you were going for the minimum You would think that the Soil under where the Concrete is going to be poured is going to determine how thick and wide a supporting Slab should be.

Go to garagejournal.com.....

can you pour it yourself or do you have to have a contractor do it to code spec's.what do they get per yrd of concrete down there.up here in iowa right now for 4000# they get about 90 bucks a yrd.if i poured a 12 x 24 slab 6 inch deep.i would have about 6.5 yrds or under $600.and i would go no thinner then 6 inch.mohawk hoists recommend at least 4.5 inches under their hoists.

If you opt for a 4" slab, best have some thicker sections under the posts. say a 2' square that is an extra 6" thick (10" total). This will provide extra support around the posts. Having 2 layers of reinforcement in these areas will help, 1 layer over the remainder the slab would be suitable.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

X2

Exactly - this thickness of the slab must suit the ground on which it is fitted. If it gets too thick look into plastic reinforcement products (or steel if it is under cover)

X2

Bigger the better - and even better with a shed around it!

A really nice flat level surface will help with chassis measurements and DIY alignments too

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

i would be the one laying the concrete. theres a place down the road that will rent me a dump trailer with enough cement in it to do the job for less than doing it by the bag.

im starting to think about doing a 15x15 steel reenforced pad with extra rebar around the posts and like mentioned above, ill go thicker where its gonna mount.

__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Just me but I would bury a plate with bolts sticking upward through the concrete to mount the base of the lift to on each side. Re rod carefully so a section of concrete could not break out as well. Being as I am I would even weld some rebar to each plate.

Overkill perhaps but drilling and lag bolts do not turn my crank that much. Although used perhaps a lot. My point is it takes very little more time to do it up so it is very strong on the leg supports. Plus costs little additional money.
Drilling and lag bolts sound like a band aid approach in comparison used on existing slabs.

That's essentially how I built my veranda and car port foundations - effing deep hole - big chunks of steel plate - 8.8 threaded bar all set in concrete with a heavy duty gravel aggregate...

...I expect that when the house falls down the veranda will still be there!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Sounds like the base for a telescope pier.

- Peter.

__________________
2021 Chevrolet Spark
Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S

You are ABSOLUTELY right to do the rebar. It makes all the difference in the world. Remember also that this stuff will need to cure at least a month before you start putting weight on it, or it will crack internally.

I don't know where you live but warmth and cure time are important.

__________________
Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

Five thousand pound mix and higher is waterproof as well I believe. I would nail a 2x2 on top of the edge forming boards after the surface is worked and keep water on it for a time.

That way you can develop the strength in the concrete you paid for with slow curing. Ask a concrete guy in your area for the best mix for an outside pad in your area. You are not going to be using that much concrete for it to make a signifigant cost difference.

I for example have always disliked pulling forms off concrete the next day and watching the concrete dry out far too early. Have used spray on moisture retainer to prevent it to some degree but it leaves a discoloration type of finish. Six mill plastic on the ground under the slab will stop moisture in the curing concrete leaving too fast from the bottom of the slab as well.