Putting in a tile tub surround and valve. My client wants something really smooth and is willing to pay for it. I told her I thought the range would be $80 Home Despot models up to maybe $500 for the Bentley/Mercedes Benz equivalent. I recall some seriously high quality units we put into high end homes back when I worked for the big companies but I don't recall the brands or models. I didn't install them, the plumbers did.

I've heard that some good units exist, with the feature of easy shut off and back on with the temp staying where it is. Most that I've used are so-so.

Any suggestions?

Anybody heard of or used this?:

Hansgrohe Metris S Thermostatic Trim w/Volume Control and Diverter

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I have a Grohe valve in my shower. Powers two heads. 3/4" inlets. Smooth operating. Used the grohe volume controls also.
Had it for about 8 years. No issues. I would buy it again.
Those Germans do make some quality products.

No suggestions on brand, but thermostatic is awesome. Once you have one, you can't go back.

Edit: Using 3/4" valving is highly recommended. I have a standalone thermostat feeding three separate control valves for rainshower, handheld, and power jets. Water pressure is never a problem. Of course, neither is water consumption...

We have had Grohe taps on both our bathroom sinks for 15+ years. They look and work like they did in 1998. IIRC they were something like $50 each back then.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

There's a Kohler two-lever (volume and temp) thermostatic valve which can be had for $200-300 on other sites. The link below is the rough-in valve -- there are many different levers/trims for it. Not sure if you can get one with a down pipe for a tub diverter built in.

KOHLER | K-2973-KS | MasterShower 1/2-Inch Single Outlet Stacked Thermostatic Valve

Just replaced the hot side seat in the tub/shower fixture in the apt in back of our house. It's working like new again. Probably installed in the 30's or 40's so it's still doing fine after 70 years of service. I'd recommend it but I don't know the brand.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Ask a working plumber. They usually know what is still good out there. Plus those brands that have easy and consistant parts availability.

Just reciently got some American standard stuff and it is now junk in comparison to what it once was. Many brands that where very good I suspect are now made very poorly. I had not used American standard for years but this was an unpleasant surprise.

I've run into that also with American Standard. Not sure what happened there. I gather that some of the Kohler stuff is good, but I'm not that impressed with their toilets. Seems nothing beats Toto for toilets. Which made me wonder if they have other bathroom products, and indeed they do. Saw single and double handle thermostatic control models here. Not sure of the difference. With a diverter, one valve is all you need.

You would think explanations of the function would be available. Speaking of thermostatic, I've heard of it before but never used it. I'm guessing you can get really precise control of water temp?

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Thermostatic is set and forget. You dial the water temp you want, and it blends the hot & cold to deliver it. No fiddling with the knobs and the no change in temp while you're in there. Well, at least as long as the hot water lasts...

Something else I'm reading that I hadn't known before, thermostatic allows for keeping the hot water tank setting above 140 w/o risk of scalding. That temp virtually eliminates a host for legionnaires disease bacteria which does well in warm water tanks, up to 120 I believe. A hotter tank will also yield longer showers, or more of them for a large family anyway.

I worked at a restaurant in Seattle years ago and we ran afoul of inspectors as the hand washing hot water in the public bathrooms was fed by the main dishwashing water heater which was seriously hot - I'd guess 150 to 160. One wrong move on the faucet and dang, serious momentary scalding was underway. This was early 70s, long before thermostatic valves were commonly used (pretty sure).

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Speakman, made in USA, very high quality.

Beautiful Grohe faucets in three bathrooms. Installed 27 years ago. No issues.

I've heard they are no piece of cake to install/repair.

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62 220sb
67 250S
72 280SE 4.5
74 280C
77 300D
82 240D
85 190E 2.3
86 300E RIP 12/28/09
85 300SD
92 300D 2.5
00 E320 Current
Over 1,000,000 miles in Benzes, Since66

....and a whole passel of BMW 2002 and Tii

There is Hans Grohe, and then there is Grohe; we spec Grohe
We use Waterworks quite often, and Dornbracht when the budget allows.
Years ago Kroin was way ahead of Kohler in style

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95 E300D working out the kinks
77 300D, 227k, station car
83 300CD 370k, gone away
89 190E 2.6- 335k, no more
79 VW FI Bus- 145k miles, summer driver
59 VW Beetle ragtop- 175k miles
12 VW Jetta- 160k miles

Lotta good advice here. I got some homework to do.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K