quick plumbing question
 

I am installing a tankless hot water, and I have taken out the old water heater and cut the water line from the street and turned off that valve and the line that use to deliver the hot water to house, I expected what water that was in the lines to come out so I had several buckets ready. But that line has been trickling for two days, where is the water coming from? :confused:

Is there a storage tank up in the attic?

I'd also open all of the hot taps in the house to allow the system to drain -- if air comes in, water won't be "stuck" in the pipes.

Other alternative is to plug the line with a piece of bread. (No joke.) Solder a threaded nipple onto the end. Remove the bread plug. Screw on a valve. Close the valve. Then go about attaching the water heater. No drip, no mess, easy to solder.

I'll try right now. thanks my man. :D

You can do the bread plug thing without removing it as well. Usually can't get at it anyway. But the method you describe is useful. Quick transition to pipe thread. Or you can stick with soldered joints. You use white bread, the whiter and dough-ier the better. Remove the crusts and make a dough ball. shove it up the pipe to keep the water away from the solder joint. When the pressure comes back on, the dough ball is dissolved and expelled soon enough.

Also, be sure to open the lowest spigot in the house. Usually an outside hose bib or maybe a basement washing machine faucet. But yeah, the water often drips for a while. 2 days is a bit much though. Weird.

worked like a charm. thanks,

Cool, glad it worked.

I guess I got what I paid for, the tankless worked great until the temperature knob gave out. it's a simple little knob and I am determined to find a replacement and not have to replace the whole circuit board. I'm calling the manufacturer today, but suspect that they will want me to buy the whole circuit board for some un Godly amount. Any thought where I could find this? when it fell apart, it was a simple mechanism, it has a half horse shoe looking thing that when you turned it would touch between 1 and 4 studs on the bottom side.
thanks in advance for any help. Robert.

Problem solved. I prayed about the situation and called the Rheem people told them my situation and for some reason the nice guy gave me the number to manufacturer of the part, the whole circuit board was only $40. from Rheem it was $295. so my total investment in the unit is $197 compared to $700 I am happy. Praise The Lord Jesus Christ. :)

Can I get one of those or was it a one time deal?

OMG . . . the Almighty got you a parts discount? Wait, wasn't he responsible for it failing in the first place? So in reality, he got another $40 bucks from you . . . for something that was his fault. What a shady deity!

Not at my learned friend. One day you will understand. :)

@ this day I don't understand that ^ :P

If my Brother in Christ MSFowler would be willing, he could explain it much better than me. As most of you guys/gals here know I can't seem to get what is in my brain onto this forum in a coherent manner. He would do a MUCH better job. :)