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  #16  
Old 08-19-2015, 04:00 AM
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Not sure the nails were doing that much to stop queaking. Maybe. A better method is to use the Squeeek No-More system on the joists. Trying to stop squeaks by nailing into the subfloor in the field is unlikely.

Squeeeeek No Moreョ Floor Squeak Repair Kit with 50 Scored Screws | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

Reviews are mixed on the web but they made my client and my wallet happy. The first 1 1/2" of threads is 8 per inch, the next inch or so is 9 per inch. About a half inch from the screwhead is a score that enables the screw to snap off with the end of the steel shank about a quarter inch from the floor surface. There's a tool that is used, the instructions make clear. The 9 thread per inch section moves slower than the 8 thread per inch initial portion and draws the floor tight to the studs. The tricky part is accurately finding the joists.

The video is cheesy but useful:

http://www.oberry-enterprises.com/

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Last edited by cmac2012; 08-19-2015 at 04:29 AM.
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  #17  
Old 08-19-2015, 07:46 AM
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There's a guy who sells a cordless nail puller attachment for drills. Don't know if it's any good but I am curious about it. Don't know if your nails are out far enough for something like that, TBO.

The Cordless Drill Nail Puller

Forgot to say in my earlier posts, the dent repair that started this thread was impressive!
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  #18  
Old 08-19-2015, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzasaurus View Post
There's a guy who sells a cordless nail puller attachment for drills. Don't know if it's any good but I am curious about it. Don't know if your nails are out far enough for something like that, TBO.



The Cordless Drill Nail Puller



Forgot to say in my earlier posts, the dent repair that started this thread was impressive!

Ours are very driven in so I don't think that would work (though might be worth a try?).


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  #19  
Old 08-19-2015, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BatteredBenz View Post
Sometimes the bigger picture is harder to see, the old guys aren't the ones putting up the YouTube videos.The nails never should have been removed, all of them should have been driven deeper. The nails were put there for some reason maybe a noisy squeaky floor. Now not only are the nails removed so the floor is back to what probably caused it to be renailed down like it was but pounding the nails back up through could only have loosened things up even more than before the nails were originally driven. It's a lose-lose



Removing the nails completely didn't really help anything from a cosmetic view point because there are still holes to fill. And now if the floor does get noisy that will need to be ignored of fixed some how also!



Kind of reminds me of the scene from the movie COLORS with Penn and Duvall, The story of the old bull and the young bull standing on the hill looking out over the herd of cows. The young bull says " I'm gonna run down there are **** me one of those fine young heifers, and the old bull says, " I think I'll walk down there and **** all those fine young heifers!" I suspect TBO got the idea nail heads were a problem and maybe when figuring out what to do about it started to see what could be done about it. Started fooling around to see if a nail could be removed, and it just ran from that point to where it is now. Just maybe never thought why the nails would be there or if he did what could be the potential results if they were removed.



Get a good punch, even have one made by a machinist, have it hardened and tempered make it the size of the nail head. get one of those seats on casters, a three pound drilling hammer and a good glove for the hand holding the punch. Scoot along and drive every nail at least a 1/4" deep. Bang one good shot, you don't want the punch walking around on that nail head bending it sideways, that just makes stuff worse, bigger crazy holes.

No they were there to secure a runner or something, not for squeaky floors. They go from the front door back to the dining room and are linear, most just driven through the subfloor and that's it. Our floors are delightfully solid throughout the house. The nails I've tried to drive in are nearly splitting the wood because of the head. They won't go any further without destroying the hardwood. The only options are to pry out or to drill the head off and drive in.

There are quite a few holes left of course but some good matched putty will likely smooth it over well.


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  #20  
Old 08-19-2015, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tbomachines View Post
Ours are very driven in so I don't think that would work (though might be worth a try?).


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You could always try it in combo with something else to lever them out a little so you don't have to bore out the surrounding wood. Do you think you could get them out a bit with end pliers?

Sucks that someone put so many of them in!
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  #21  
Old 08-19-2015, 10:11 AM
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Anywhere in the house with extra floor boards you are planning on removing?

If you really want to go with a no nail hole look, get a countersink and plug kit. Drill out all the nail holes with the countersink deep. For thw holes with the nail still in them drive them deeper and remove the drill bit from the countersink and carefully make a plug hole over the nail. (will be harder as the drill bit locates tge countersink bit, but can be done

Use the plug cutter which is a mirror image of the same bit to make circular plugs out of your same age wood scrap. Pop them out with a screw driver and glue them in all the holes making sure grain lines up.

Usually a bit of the plug should be proud of the hole. You can either sand them flat if its close, or taking care to remember the direction of grain, chisel them close so the floor sanding doesnt get hung up and break them below the depth of the hole.

Sand the floor and they will disappear
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  #22  
Old 08-19-2015, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
Anywhere in the house with extra floor boards you are planning on removing?

If you really want to go with a no nail hole look, get a countersink and plug kit. Drill out all the nail holes with the countersink deep. For thw holes with the nail still in them drive them deeper and remove the drill bit from the countersink and carefully make a plug hole over the nail. (will be harder as the drill bit locates tge countersink bit, but can be done

Use the plug cutter which is a mirror image of the same bit to make circular plugs out of your same age wood scrap. Pop them out with a screw driver and glue them in all the holes making sure grain lines up.

Usually a bit of the plug should be proud of the hole. You can either sand them flat if its close, or taking care to remember the direction of grain, chisel them close so the floor sanding doesnt get hung up and break them below the depth of the hole.

Sand the floor and they will disappear

This is a really good idea, will look into that -- thanks!


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  #23  
Old 08-19-2015, 12:36 PM
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Not sure what you're using to pull them but I use a 3' pry bar to pull stubborn nails.
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  #24  
Old 08-19-2015, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Not sure what you're using to pull them but I use a 3' pry bar to pull stubborn nails.

That's what we used, problem is the heads are flush or driven far into the wood so we can't get the crowbar under them to pry them out. They're nasty buggers.


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  #25  
Old 08-19-2015, 01:25 PM
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If I'm trying to nail into older wood I pre-drill, the bit about the size of the shank or a tad smaller, bigger not being good. Then the head will have a chance to hold it down without splitting the wood. If the nail is in a joist, I don't really see any reason to try to get it out. Will just cause more damage and you're going to have the hole in the wood anyway. Setting it would be good enough I would think.
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  #26  
Old 08-19-2015, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
Anywhere in the house with extra floor boards you are planning on removing?

If you really want to go with a no nail hole look, get a countersink and plug kit. Drill out all the nail holes with the countersink deep. For thw holes with the nail still in them drive them deeper and remove the drill bit from the countersink and carefully make a plug hole over the nail. (will be harder as the drill bit locates tge countersink bit, but can be done

Use the plug cutter which is a mirror image of the same bit to make circular plugs out of your same age wood scrap. Pop them out with a screw driver and glue them in all the holes making sure grain lines up.

Usually a bit of the plug should be proud of the hole. You can either sand them flat if its close, or taking care to remember the direction of grain, chisel them close so the floor sanding doesnt get hung up and break them below the depth of the hole.

Sand the floor and they will disappear
A Jap style fine toothed pull-cutting saw with a thin flexible blade works good as well, Stanley even makes a good one that costs less than $10 with a 6" blade, fine on one side a bit fewer teeth on the other side.
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2015, 04:06 PM
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