|
|
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Not sure the nails were doing that much to stop queaking. Maybe. A better method is to use the Squeeek No-More system on the joists. Trying to stop squeaks by nailing into the subfloor in the field is unlikely.
Squeeeeek No Moreョ Floor Squeak Repair Kit with 50 Scored Screws | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware Reviews are mixed on the web but they made my client and my wallet happy. The first 1 1/2" of threads is 8 per inch, the next inch or so is 9 per inch. About a half inch from the screwhead is a score that enables the screw to snap off with the end of the steel shank about a quarter inch from the floor surface. There's a tool that is used, the instructions make clear. The 9 thread per inch section moves slower than the 8 thread per inch initial portion and draws the floor tight to the studs. The tricky part is accurately finding the joists. The video is cheesy but useful: http://www.oberry-enterprises.com/
__________________
1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K Last edited by cmac2012; 08-19-2015 at 04:29 AM. |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
There's a guy who sells a cordless nail puller attachment for drills. Don't know if it's any good but I am curious about it. Don't know if your nails are out far enough for something like that, TBO.
The Cordless Drill Nail Puller Forgot to say in my earlier posts, the dent repair that started this thread was impressive!
__________________
1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold] 1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto 覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧 "You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it." "What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish." |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Ours are very driven in so I don't think that would work (though might be worth a try?). Sent from an abacus
__________________
TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
No they were there to secure a runner or something, not for squeaky floors. They go from the front door back to the dining room and are linear, most just driven through the subfloor and that's it. Our floors are delightfully solid throughout the house. The nails I've tried to drive in are nearly splitting the wood because of the head. They won't go any further without destroying the hardwood. The only options are to pry out or to drill the head off and drive in. There are quite a few holes left of course but some good matched putty will likely smooth it over well. Sent from an abacus
__________________
TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Sucks that someone put so many of them in!
__________________
1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold] 1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto 覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧 "You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it." "What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish." |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Anywhere in the house with extra floor boards you are planning on removing?
If you really want to go with a no nail hole look, get a countersink and plug kit. Drill out all the nail holes with the countersink deep. For thw holes with the nail still in them drive them deeper and remove the drill bit from the countersink and carefully make a plug hole over the nail. (will be harder as the drill bit locates tge countersink bit, but can be done Use the plug cutter which is a mirror image of the same bit to make circular plugs out of your same age wood scrap. Pop them out with a screw driver and glue them in all the holes making sure grain lines up. Usually a bit of the plug should be proud of the hole. You can either sand them flat if its close, or taking care to remember the direction of grain, chisel them close so the floor sanding doesnt get hung up and break them below the depth of the hole. Sand the floor and they will disappear
__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
This is a really good idea, will look into that -- thanks! Sent from an abacus
__________________
TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Not sure what you're using to pull them but I use a 3' pry bar to pull stubborn nails.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
That's what we used, problem is the heads are flush or driven far into the wood so we can't get the crowbar under them to pry them out. They're nasty buggers. Sent from an abacus
__________________
TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
If I'm trying to nail into older wood I pre-drill, the bit about the size of the shank or a tad smaller, bigger not being good. Then the head will have a chance to hold it down without splitting the wood. If the nail is in a joist, I don't really see any reason to try to get it out. Will just cause more damage and you're going to have the hole in the wood anyway. Setting it would be good enough I would think.
__________________
1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Jewish American Princesses got their own saws? No kidding.
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|