Hello, here's odd one but I bet Hattie or Kerry would know off the top of their head.

I had a sewage ejector fail due to me dropping the pump and cracking the bottom of the basin, thus ground water coming into my basement sewage basin.

I have a 3 inch crack that I need to fill with a .5 gal minute water spout coming into my crock that needs to be patched..and I am NOT going to pull the crock I have done that and its a nightmare.

I am thinking that an underwater patch like a company called Marine-tec had which is now out of business.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wWa4wwBtZU

This is what I am repairing http://www.jackelinc.com/sump_basins.html

tIA

Can you find a slightly smaller basin or some type of container that you could drop in and allow to function like a liner?

Hi, the liner and DAP were my first also my first thoughts but there are no liners available and DAP only adheres to fiberglass. That is why I am looking at the marine products.

I am going to call the manufacture tomorrow because I am sure that this is not the first penetration of the impenetrable basins. I have far more faith in the MbShop braintrust.

You need something to stick to plastic while it's underwater? While I know of and have a couple of stick epoxies which you kneed and then apply IDK if they are designed to stick to plastic.

I feel your pain. Some plastics are almost non repairable as almost nothing will stick to them basically. Polyurethane if I remember correctly is one of them. A partial repair is not really acceptable with a sewage container.

I assume what you put up is a picture of the same item. Anyways I have never seen one in any other material basically.

That said if the pump start level is below the inlet as it should be. You might insert a heavy plastic like 6mil vapor barrier as a tank lnner. The three of four feet on the bottom of the pump should prevent the suction of the pump sucking the plastic up and blocking the pumps intake. Or just setting something stiffer on top of the plastic in the pumps bottom area to prevent it. In my opinion the incoming sewage and fluid will push the plastic out displacing any air behind the plastic 6mil material. As the fluid is pumped out I cannot see the liner being disturbed that much if any. I am not going to sit here and really think about it much more. Simply because if this is not acceptable or does not work out well you may have to dig out the tank. The area of the input hole must be caulked though. Then the tank filled to just below there as a test with water to make sure the hole in the 6 mil does not move

There is yet one other thing to consider as well though first. On my tanks there is no actual input pipe intrusion into the chamber as the connection is external. This may allow just dropping another identical tank in the old one with minimal modification. Basically the removal of the input portion of the new tank. You can check with a vendor or at one of their outlets but coming out of the same molds they should be stackable as that feature also allows easy removal from the injection machine. That being the tapered sides.

Where your new hole overlaps the old should be slightly larger and of course a little lower as the replacement tank will be slightly higher in relation to the old. Plus that area should be caulked in as you want no issues right there. My belief is there are suitable caulks out there.

I should ask the wife how workable this is but she is busy right now thank God. She might say well. Have you taken into account that the earth pressure may have deformed the original tank enough to cause difficulties in stacking. She seems to delight in nailing my posterior in a friendly way from time to time.

I do not particularily like her doing this but at the same time she is very, very smart. She never gloats or tells me I told you so but you do have the message she knows. I always appreciated when she walked into one of the projects of ours over the years and said she really liked it. You intuitivly have to know it is good. She is also famous for telling it as it is. How she seems to know so much about almost everything still disturbs me. She has to have some form of photographic mind. Anyways there is also a killer of a humorus mind in there as well.

I don't believe epoxy would stick to polyethylene.


Sorry not sure.

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It is almost like there is a waxy finish with some plastics. Generally I always considered them non glueable. I suppose if you rough up the surface enough you get a very limited mechanical bond.

Although the description of the product described it as a urethane foam. To me they just seem more like a plastic gas jug that is in my best guess polyethylene as Hattersguy mentioned.

I do not even know if plastic welding works on that plastic family. I learnt many years ago that it was not really glueable though. Being wet as well does not increase the chances that are slim at best in my opinion.

If you can scratch up the liner with 80 grit sandpaper, try a hydraulic cement patch 2-3 times larger than the damaged area. You may need to allow for a pressure relief 'straw' depending on how strong the in-flow is. Hydraulic cement will set in a couple of minutes.

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I’ve been working with some liquid urethanes and acrylics recently. While I don’t have a direct answer to your problem, contact an industrial distributor of resins and describe your application. They probably know of a workable solution or way to produce one. You can try contacting support at fiberlay.com for example, and ask them, or any similar supplier in your home area.

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