I joined another forum that deals with Model A fords this evening

[engatwork]

It is called the fordbarn.com. Joined after getting a 1928 Ford Model A in the shop this past weekend.

First thing I did was run the battery down and make an attempt to charge the battery with the charger hooked up backwards. Anyone want to make a guess why a seasoned veteran for car repair would screw up something so simple other than the fact that it is 6vdc? Anyway, ended up replacing the battery and jumping the cut out relay and the car started right up (thankfully it was not an S class).

I want to post a question on there asking can I use a two post asymmetrical lift on the frame on this car. The frame rails look pretty weak to me. The car is in for a brake job. I will post the question later after I get approval for being but if someone on here already knows the answer then please share it with me.

This jewel is all new to me. It is an easy car to work on.

[t walgamuth]

Well, I bet its not too heavy. Those model a pickups are pretty cute! ....specially if a roadster.

[engatwork]

I think I read where it is around 2200# Tom.

[kerry]

You could get a job as a classic car mechanic in Russia:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GAZ

[panZZer]

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Well, I bet its not too heavy. Those model a pickups are pretty cute! ....specially if a roadster.

just spotted one in the next county ,
but unfortunately the picture attaching function is jacked again...........

[Idle]

Originally Posted by engatwork

It is called the fordbarn.com. Joined after getting a 1928 Ford Model A in the shop this past weekend.

First thing I did was run the battery down and make an attempt to charge the battery with the charger hooked up backwards. Anyone want to make a guess why a seasoned veteran for car repair would screw up something so simple other than the fact that it is 6vdc? Anyway, ended up replacing the battery and jumping the cut out relay and the car started right up (thankfully it was not an S class).

I want to post a question on there asking can I use a two post asymmetrical lift on the frame on this car. The frame rails look pretty weak to me. The car is in for a brake job. I will post the question later after I get approval for being but if someone on here already knows the answer then please share it with me.

This jewel is all new to me. It is an easy car to work on.

Pick up some sturdy pieces of lumber, something like a two by eight, and place them along the tops of your lifts four lifting points. They would go lengthwise along the lift. Then you drive the car onto the boards and lift the entire car up with the car's tires sitting on the boards. If you have the room you can also drive off the end of the boards when you are finished with the service.

This was the standard way of lifting these cars for service during the 30's. I don't think the frames of normal autos would stand up to the flex until the 1934's came out. When the industry standard of steel frames with crossmembers became common the lifts we use today became the accepted way of lifting a car.

OR: When service was needed then the car was driven over a grease pit and the cars were worked on by someone standing in the hole. For an example of this see the work space of any quickie oil change place.

But the grease pit was only at a dealers garage. The lift I described was usually outside of a filling station. All you needed was a flat spot of ground the lift would not sink into.

And a big coat during the winter or a rainstorm.

[Idle]

Google the term 'grease rack' and you will see some photos of what I am talking about.

[mytimeyet]

positive 'ground' car?

[engatwork]

Yep, positive terminal on the battery goes to the frame.

[t walgamuth]

Is that why you crossed the wires on the charger? (Don't cross the streams!) (Ghostbusters).

[engatwork]

Yep, I did not even look at battery terminals but looked at cable connected to frame. Cable to frame was + battery terminal. Let's just say I had to replace the battery. After replacing battery and jumping cut out relay at generator car started right up.

[bsharp8256]

Originally Posted by Idle

Pick up some sturdy pieces of lumber, something like a two by eight, and place them along the tops of your lifts four lifting points. They would go lengthwise along the lift. Then you drive the car onto the boards and lift the entire car up with the car's tires sitting on the boards. If you have the room you can also drive off the end of the boards when you are finished with the service.

This was the standard way of lifting these cars for service during the 30's. I don't think the frames of normal autos would stand up to the flex until the 1934's came out. When the industry standard of steel frames with crossmembers became common the lifts we use today became the accepted way of lifting a car.

+1 for this. I don't know much about them myself, but I have a friend who LOVES them and has several...he doesn't use a lift and I've never asked him how this would be done, but I have seen the frames of these and I just wouldn't trust the frame to support the car, especially if it's the original 80+ year old wood.

He recently got his '31 coupe back on the road after an engine rebuild. I helped him put it back in the car. It really makes me want one badly. There's really not much to them at all!

[Idle]

The standard jacking point is as close to the wheel, on the axle, as you can get. But that's for changing flats.

It is also popular to jack up the rear by placing a floor jack under the differential and just lifting from the center. We used to do this during the 50's when we were jacking up anything for rear brake service.

I would not recommend this today since I would rather go to a little extra effort to jack up the car 'right' than to risk breaking an old piece of cast iron.

[martureo]

I'm not really into Model A's but I do have friends that are.

I'm going to leave a shoutout for them.

Brattons Antique Auto Parts. They deal exclusively in Model A Parts.
https://www.brattons.com/

[engatwork]

Thanks. I've got it on the lift and all bushings, pivot points, etc for the brakes are used up. Im impressed with Mr Fords engineeting in the design . I will be approaching owner to try to get idea on budget before I start. Complete, rebuilt brakes are around $400 per corner.

Thanks for the link.