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-   -   How to test heating element for clothes dryer (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=378260)

tyl604 06-02-2016 03:52 PM

How to test heating element for clothes dryer
 
My Sears dryer will not heat. Model 110 60902990. I pulled out the heating element (part #3387747) and it looked ok.

Is there any way to test the heating element with a multi meter? Like the one I got from Harbor Freight for about $5?

kerry 06-02-2016 04:30 PM

Can you just put 110 or 220 volts to it and see if it heats up?

TX76513 06-02-2016 04:45 PM

Save a step and check the High Limit Thermostat first with your HF ohm meter set to continuity - if no continuity its bad. (very common problem) If OK then set your multimeter to the R x 1 resistance scale. Touch each meter probe and to one end of the element. If you receive a reading of infinite resistance, then your heating element is no longer functioning properly and you will have to replace it.

tyl604 06-02-2016 05:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
TX - you are way over my head. Here is a pic of my multimeter. Can I use it and how do I set it? Do not understand your directions at all.

Thanks.

Just realized I can send a bigger pic using photobucket if necessary.

Idle 06-02-2016 07:12 PM

I should think you could set your meter to any one of the settings on the ohms scale, the thing that looks like a Greek omega, and put one probe on one electrical connection of the heating element and one probe on the other one.

If the needle jumps, or if your digital scale goes to zero, everything is OK. If you get a reading on the digital scale, or no movement of the needle on the analog meter, then the thing is not passing electricity and is shot.

Is this correct?

And if you can take it out you could take it to an appliance supply house and they would be glad to test it for you.

tyl604 06-02-2016 09:02 PM

Idle and TX - thanks. I looked it up on the internet and figured it out. Set the dial on 200 Omega (which I assume is the sign for ohms) with red wire in the middle and black wire in the bottom.

I tested both the heating element and the thermostat and they passed. However when I tested the fuse part #3977394 it failed; did not register on the multimeter.

I had already ordered a new heating element and it was pretty cheap $55. The fuse comes in a two part package with a thermostat which I do not need but so far I do not see the fuse sold by itself. May call Sears tomorrow.

Pretty interesting and some fun. Not in a big hurry so I may just install the new heating element and see if anything happens. If not, which I expect, I will then order the fuse.

The old heating element itself has seen some problem because half of the metal shelf is blackened and the metal is cracked through in about four places. That is why I do not mind replacing it - although I bet it will still work.

sloride 06-02-2016 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyl604 (Post 3603537)
Idle and TX - thanks. I looked it up on the internet and figured it out. Set the dial on 200 Omega (which I assume is the sign for ohms) with red wire in the middle and black wire in the bottom.

I tested both the heating element and the thermostat and they passed. However when I tested the fuse part #3977394 it failed; did not register on the multimeter.

I had already ordered a new heating element and it was pretty cheap $55. The fuse comes in a two part package with a thermostat which I do not need but so far I do not see the fuse sold by itself. May call Sears tomorrow.

Pretty interesting and some fun. Not in a big hurry so I may just install the new heating element and see if anything happens. If not, which I expect, I will then order the fuse.

The old heating element itself has seen some problem because half of the metal shelf is blackened and the metal is cracked through in about four places. That is why I do not mind replacing it - although I bet it will still work.

Did you pull the fuse and test it or while it is in place?

TX76513 06-03-2016 08:28 AM

Glad you sorted it out. Washers and Dryers intimidate people and shouldn't. To a certain degree they have been made the same way for decades.

tyl604 06-03-2016 08:58 AM

Slo - I pulled the fuse out and tested it. No continuity.

lorainfurniture 06-03-2016 09:50 AM

The thermal limiter blows for a reason. Typically because the cycling thermostat starts to get wonky. This is why they are sold in pairs. Always replace them both.

Another reason that fuse can go is because of an air restriction. Check the blower housing for lint build up, and clean your vents out.

oldsinner111 06-03-2016 09:55 AM

about 6 years ago,my dryer's thermistor went out.Somehow I bought a difeerent one,and changes elements to 110 volts saving alot of money.Can't remember how I did it.

MaestroB 06-03-2016 09:55 AM

Hello!

Sorry for jumping in but actually I'm not replying to this post but as a new comer into the forum, I just want to say hello to you old folks.


Thanks

P.C. 06-03-2016 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaestroB (Post 3603631)
Hello!

Sorry for jumping in but actually I'm not replying to this post but as a new comer into the forum, I just want to say hello to you old folks.


Thanks

Hello, mate! Welcome aboard, and thanks for the spam link!

sloride 06-03-2016 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyl604 (Post 3603608)
Slo - I pulled the fuse out and tested it. No continuity.

Just what I was getting at. In its holder could read differently.

tyl604 06-03-2016 03:07 PM

I vacuumed out all the lint. About half of the heating element shelf is blackened and the metal is cracked almost through in about four places. I would guess that it had been getting too hot.

This AM I purchased both the thermostat and the fuse from Sears for $21. When I told the lady over the phone that I only needed the fuse, she said the price of the fuse by itself was $25; but if I purchased the package with fuse and thermostat it was $19.89. What kind of sense does that make?

I bought both. As soon as the new element arrives I will install both and see if the thing works.

Has been easy and fun.


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