Woodworking

[Botnst]

I need a router. Need recommendations. Also what blades for a learner doing basic stuff.

I figure this is CMAC’s department for sure but I don’t know if he’s the only guy with lots of woodworking experience. So, advice please.

[Dubyagee]

https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/starter-sets


It has the basic bits to get your confidence up.

[pj67coll]

What kind of, and how much routing do you intend to do?

I'm shortly going to acquire a Stanley No71 Router Plane, probably off of E-bay. I prefer woodworking with old fashioned hand tools. A friend of mine in New Zealand who does quite a bit of wood working on the side as a profitable hobby uses one and swears by it.

Sorry I can't be of more use. I'm not experienced enough to give meaningfull advice in the department of power tools.

- Peter.

[Botnst]

Bits. Not blades.

Now you know I wasn’t kidding when I said I was a learner!

[rocky raccoon]

I assume you are talking about a hand-held power tool, not a table router/shaper.

Be sure you get a "Plunge Router". It makes working inside designs such as signs a lot easier. A regular non-plunge router is great for working edges and can be used for other stuff but makes the job a little harder.

As far as bits go, I'm sure you can get a basic set somewhere. Should have a 45 deg champfer, a couple of round bits in different sizes, straight side bits and perhaps cove and molding shapers.

The best bits have a ball bearing guide pin so that you don't friction-burn the wood.

Craftsman always made good tools of this sort. As you may know, Lowes bought out Craftsman tools when Sears went tits-up.

[Botnst]

Not a table router, no.

Thanks for the insights. I've always liked Craftsman but haven't bought tools from them since our local Sears died. Didn't know Lowes bought them. They still replace broken tools? I only had to do that once. On a 3/4" drive socket that split. Yeah, ..... cheater pipe. Mmm. I still kind of wish I hadn't done that exchange.

[Frank X. Morris]

Howdy Bot,
My woody's working just fine;-)

[Botnst]

Originally Posted by Frank X. Morris

Howdy Bot,
My woody's working just fine;-)

Don’t go lyin’ to your friends.

[Frank X. Morris]

Originally Posted by Botnst

Don’t go lyin’ to your friends.

Howdy Bot,
Not lyin', just pulling your leg. That's my story and I'm sticking to it;-)

[Botnst]

Originally Posted by Frank X. Morris

Howdy Bot,
Not lyin', just pulling your leg. That's my story and I'm sticking to it;-)

Just you watch ‘who’s what’ your pulling.

[cmac2012]

Dubyagee's advice is good. For bits buy a collection. Those look pretty good, Home Despot has some Diablo brand sets that are pretty good, not too spendy.

For routers I'm a big Porter Cable fan. They have a pretty good reputation. The one I use most often is a lot like this one, just 20 years older:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-690LR-11-Amp-Fixed-Base-Router/dp/B00005QEVQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F92772PYDT0BX9YNCE2F

It's a 1 3/4 hp, that's plenty for starting out. There are monster 4 hp models, that would be one you might buy after 3 or 4 years of making high end furniture.

Be sure that it has 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets. A collet behaves like a chuck, but more stable and reliable, and for one size only. Most bits are 1/4 inch shank but many of the larger ones are 1/2 inch. Most routers can be attached to a router table. I bought a cheapo a while back for a job that required a lot of use of one.

Plunge routers are good, I don't own one as I don't do work that really needs one. One of the main things I use one for these days is mortising out door edges for hinges, lock face plates, etc. I have a technique, I trace the item with a sharp pencil, I use a medium wide chisel to drive in a cut along the line, then I mark the inside of the cut line with a Sharpie. When you're routing out the inner part of the mortise, visibility can sometimes be tight and you do NOT want to go past your pencil line/cut line. PITA. Sometimes when I don't have my router with me I have to do the mortise by hand. Takes a long time and It's hard to get it really good. I have nice sets of chisels and I keep them sharp - I can do it but it can drive you a bit batty. Got to find the high spot as you try the hinge out for fit, you don't want to make it too deep in any one spot if you can help it.

Couple of tips, the on/off switch is often hard to make out as for postion, on many models anyway. So when you plug it in, put it on its side and hold it down while you insert the plug. Those things have major torque and if it's sitting on its top, or in any position, with the switch on, if you plug it in it could easily fly off the table, possibly breaking the base housing. Ask me how I know.

Suckers have a serious danger component, the bit is out in the open and would chew flesh like you wouldn't believe. THAT ONE I have no experience with. I've read stories though.

You could even start with a smaller one. Eventually a guy will have several if he does a lot of the work. Coincidentally this month's, well July (bi-monthly) Fine Homebuilding has an article titled "Get More From Your Router." The author says he has more than a dozen. I have four I think. Two smaller trim routers (way handy) the stand-by 1-3/4 hp model, and a Rube Goldberg Porter Cable 513 lock mortiser. The latter a trip, this vid shows one in action (turn the volume down), the bit is advanced maybe an 1/8" per cycle, I forget exactly. It's for putting in large cartridge locks in doors. Will give a clean hole several inches deep in a hurry.

Speaking of FH, I'll bet you could find some good books on hobbyist uses for routers at your library. If you find one you like, can probably find it new or on eBay.

[Botnst]

Thanks!

What do you think of lithium ion power tools — cut the cord or keep it? Most of my power tools have cords because most tools I bought before batteries had reliable lives.

[t walgamuth]

Cordless imho. I used to do some wood work. Somewhere I have a pretty nice router, but I am not sure where. Get the bits with the ball bearing tip.

[Botnst]

I bought a Bosch router. On son-in-law’s advice got fixed base. Also picked-up two bits I need immediately. Gee, those suckers are high!

1/4" S. R. Collet Chuck -- 2 610 906 283
1/2" S. R. Collet Chuck -- 2 610 906 284
16mm Shaft Wrench -- 2 610 991 388
24mm Collet Nut Wrench -- 2 610 992 417
Chip Shield-- 2 610 991 389
Fixed Base (RA1161)
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/fixed-base-routers-1617-27716-p/

Ordering accessories separately.

Thank you all for guidance. Sincerely.

[barry12345]

Get a router table for it as the vertical adjustment on this model is easily workable in one. Many are not. As for router bits. Their carbide bit kits are probably not the best but you can get a lot of bits and styles. At places like harbor freight.


Really cheap per bit like a dollar or so apiece. They come in a large wooden box. Under fifty dollars when on sale or even normally priced perhaps. Individual router bits have always tended to be expensive.


Also get hold of some books or watch some router episodes on Utube. You can do far more with them than most people realize. Without a fence to attach to the router. Long really straight cuts are difficult. Unless you clamp a board to the work as a guide for the router base. Or build or buy a table for the router.

I was going to mention for the member on your thread that mortises for door hinges. I made a wood jig once many years ago. I clamp it on the door edge. It only allows the exact area for the hinge to be routed out. It is acting as a stop for the router base in three directions. The only downside is there is a very small corner to chisel out if the hinges are not rounded on the corners. Fast and gives precision fits for the hinge. You cannot make the area for the hinge oversize. No need to chisel the outline for the hinge either as you get nice clean straight edges with a router.


Bosh routers are both popular and well thought of.