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  #1  
Old 09-03-2002, 10:59 PM
Holson Adi's Avatar
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Friend's 1990 Camry stalling? Needs a $300 tune up(?)

I know that everyone here loves the Camry... ... but I kinda want to help my friend.

He has a 1989 Toyota Camry I-4 Auto. It's a decent car actually.. can't say that it's a Mercedes.. but then again it never really pretended to be one.

He was driving to school and suddenly the car just died when he tried to accelerate. He restarted the engine but soon enough it died again as he opened up the throttle.

Just because he was really close to a nearby gas-station, he took it there to have them find out what was wrong.

They guy told him that he needs a tune up that's gonna cost him $300... damn ... anyhow he ended up chargin him $65 just for the 'tune up' advice.

My questions..
What do they mean by a tune up?

Do they mean spark plugs, fuel filters, and air filter or what?
If that's all they mean then I can help him replace those things fairly easily...

Any ideas?

The car starts fine, idles rather rough (the car vibrates - I think it's just a low idle speed),
and after the 'mechanic' looked at it the car ran fine. That is why I told my friend to just forget about that gas station mechanic as long as he can drive it around.

I'm thinking of the following..

1. Replace Fuel filter
2. Replace Air Filter
3. Replace Spark Plugs (should I use Platinum spark plugs?)

I really don't know too much about gas engines...

could it be the fuel pump or something or maybe the distributor? Damn I have quite a bit to learn in the gas world.

Anyway thanks for all the help.
This site's been great help for my Benz so maybe you could be nice a Toyota Camry for once :p I just have a thing for older cars no matter what it is hehehe...

and my hands are itchy to kinda make it run better.

He changes his oil often though...

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Last edited by Holson Adi; 09-07-2002 at 11:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2002, 12:24 AM
Provo Spain?
 
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Email me with more info on the car, and I'll be glad to help. I'm up tonight for a while. Snoop_bealybob@yahoo.com

Mileage? Repair history/ maintenance? etc. etc.

I'll get right back with you.

I wouldn't let that guy "tune-up" my car for three bills. No way.

I'd do the plugs, inspect the wires, air filter, fuel filter just for starters. It's amazing sometimes what little things will do. Is it fuel injected or carb? Look for loose vacum lines around the Carb if it has one. Maybe that's why it ran better after he stopped in the shop. If it's FI, then run some injector cleaner through it. You could pick up a chiltons or haynes from the library to check what the symptoms my be related to in the troubleshooting section. Goodluck.
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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold

Last edited by Jason Beal; 09-04-2002 at 04:01 AM.
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2002, 09:29 AM
Jim B+
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Computer stuff may be starting to go up...

and this always means money to replace. Based on what you described, I think the problem might be fuel related, and a fresh tank combined with maybe a new fuel line filter might do the trick.

Haynes manuals are a good investment, and also give well illustrated "trouble trees" you can follow to chase down these problems.

Good luck to you
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2002, 10:02 AM
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yal yal is offline
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$300 for a tune up on a four cylinder car is a little high! But for a road side garage that sounds about right. Air filter, spark plugs, distributer+rotor, fuel filter, maybe pcv valve and maybe even a set of bosch wires would run you about $150 tops, much much less if you buy the stuff from mercedeshop and stay away from the Nippon spark plug wire set which cost like $80! By the way the wire sets for this car come attached to the distributer. You can change all the above yourself in under an hour. I would stay away from platinum plugs and get some NGK v-power plugs. If you can find Accel u-groove plugs for the car get those, I have used them on my friends 87 Honda with great results. Hope this helps...
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  #5  
Old 09-04-2002, 01:25 PM
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Yes, I just had a Subaru I'm working on to sell that wouldn't hold an idle. Replaced fuel filter and presto. I did all the other stuff too, but the FF seemed to do the trick. Good luck.
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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold
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  #6  
Old 09-04-2002, 03:06 PM
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Guys thanks for all the help.. Jason very generous offer thank's a lot. I will look at the car this afternoon probably and look at the engine just to get a feel of where things are and I'll probably replace the plugs, fuel filter (weird looking and expensive...), and look at the air filter and replace that too if necessary.

I'll also dig out the maintenance history if there's any...

I'll order the parts from my favorite online store...
hehehe..

BTW, I don't know if it's fuel injected or still a carburated engine. I do think that it's FI... so maybe running a bottle fuel injector cleaner wouldn't be such a bad idea..

oh well things to do for the weekend

You guys won't believe how many times I mentioned glow plugs to him instead of spark plugs (I did realize and correct myself almost every single time!)
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2002, 08:52 PM
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Update!

I put in new Spark Plugs (Bosch Supers - at 99c/pc.) and a bottle of Techron Concentrated fuel injector cleaner...

well drove it a lot today and didn't stall one bit! Pretty impressive car I must say! hehehe it doesn't look like it could hold up like a Benz... but then again it never was priced like one.

The car still vibrates at idle though and just a tiny tiny bit of throttle smooths (sp?) it out...

How is the idle on this Camry adjusted? It has Fuel Injection and is an I-4.

He had the air filter replaced (looks brand new)... the brake fluid is dark! (will replace that), the car was low on coolant (and the tank is dirty, will flush it over the weekend), oil is good, ATF is rather brown.

We'll probably do the brake fluid, and the coolant flush for now. Then next week when we can get the parts we'll replace the Distributor Cap/Rotor/Plug Wires, and fuel filter...

I thought my diesel's engine bay was dirty hehehe :p engine looked like it had never been touched!
but kinda says something about Toyota's reliabilty..
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Last edited by Holson Adi; 09-06-2002 at 08:33 AM.
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  #8  
Old 09-05-2002, 09:28 PM
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I'd replace the spark plug wires/distributor as needed . The tranie filter/fluid is easy to change on this car too. It takes me a little over an hour, and I really take my time when I work on my cars. Maybe check the timing if you want. Check the pcv valve, and egr too while your at it!

I see tons of toyotas that are abused bad and keep on tickin'. They are very good cars. I love mine, I bought it with 30k on it, it has 67k and has been great. I take care of it the best I know how. I want to see if I can get it to 300k. If my wife doesn't wreck it again, I just might! Good luck.
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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2002, 01:31 PM
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There's a small bolt with a lock nut that can advance the throttle-idle position. When I had an '89 Camry, the Throttle Position Sensor got a little sticky. I took it off, cleaned it, lubed it (and lubed where the throttle plate pivots) and it helped lots.

Tekron is a good idea every time you change the oil on this car. This vintage Toyota inline-4 (with high miles) has a history of carbon build up on the valves . Tekron is supposed to help disolve minimal carbon build up.

In my opinion, this can be an excellent car. I sold mine with 201,000 miles on it. Ran great, burned no oil, and got over 30 mpg. (5-speed) Never had a single problem. If I didn't get such a good deal on my MB, I'd still be driving the thing. I'm not aware of a more trouble-free drive-train on any car, at any price. I sold it to my Mother in-law. (ok, let the jokes begin) I really liked the car for utilitarian reasons -- but there is absolutely nothing it to "love" about a Camry.
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  #10  
Old 09-06-2002, 05:15 PM
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I know I should get the manual...but I can only hit the library tomorrow earliest... even then I have homework to do..

but anyway we did the fuel filter today... all the bolts are badly and I mean badly rusted that they were all hard to take out...but after soaking them in WD40 it was much easier to untighten the nuts.

We did such a poor job that we lost about 1/8 a tank of fuel or more... I smell like premix now hehehe... better than diesel fuel I must admit at least it evaporates rather fast..I remember when I did my 300CD's fuel filter...

the car didn't seem to run any better though.. in fact when I drove it I think it's still very very nice! It has 60k mi. and it's MY1990 not '89.. my bad..

that idle speed adjuster (bolt + lock nut) combo is definitely rusted out. I think I'll spray some WD40 on it and see if I can play around with it some other day.. (I saw how it works though)
in fact most of the bolts are badly rusted but somehow the body doesn't have that much rust..

oh another question... the brakes felt weird .. as in they stop the car but it feels really soft the more you press it (spongy I guess is the word). Is that how it's supposed to be like when new?

thank you guys! This forum's awesome! thanks for helpin out despite it being a Camry hehehe (I know some who'd bash the Camry to death!)

oh a few more questions from someone new to the gas world..
What is the PCV Valve?
I didn't see where the EGR is... but I suppose it's working well as the engine is very smooth and revs willingly.
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2002, 07:53 PM
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This sounds like all the same stuff I've been doing on the subaru all week. The positive crankcase ventilation valve may be right on top of the engine, it probably cost two bucks to replace. I took mine out with just by disconecting the hoses that attach to it, and pulled it right out. Take it out, and shake it, if it rattles it's still good. If not, then replace. It takes blowby gases from engine back in the intake manifold.

If the brakes are sinking to the floor with your foot on it, it may be the master cylinder. I would bleed the system first and see if it tightens up. I just did that too on my Subaru. There is a test to see if it is the booster, but I can't remember off hand what it is. The book will tell you. My bet is that it's the MC if it still sinks after bleeding it out.

haha, when I did that fuel filter, it came rushing out too. I was like, "alright I better get this done fast or I'm going to have no gas left in the tank!" It was all over the place for maybe ten seconds. It seemed alot longer though.

Isn't it fun to play with our cars? Take care.

JJ
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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold
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  #12  
Old 09-07-2002, 03:05 AM
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Thanks for the guidance on the PCV Valve, I'll look at it tomorrow or something.

Is the process for bleeding the brakes the same as the procedure for bleeding my MB brakes? ... I know this sounds stupid... but.. do I bleed the rear drums too?
Maybe I'll just replace the brake fluid while I'm at it...

if it doesn't fix it I guess it's time for a master cylinder.. I might just leave that to someone else .. I don't have the guts to mess with braking systems... sounds too risky a DIY to me.

Is there a forum like this for Toyota cars? I mean it's great here but it's fun to read the archive hehehe..

btw the Camry's headlights are terrible (US headlights that look like two flashlights)... perhaps I should find him a pair of Japanese spec (H4?) headlights as a gift for his b'day in December hehehe...
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  #13  
Old 09-07-2002, 03:53 AM
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You may want to inspect all the brakelines too before moving on to the MC. Although I'd doubt it as the culprit, you still should inspect them to make sure they are in good shape.

The MC isn't that hard to do at all. You have to bench bleed the MC before putting it on. The new MC (sounds like a rapper) will come with instructions in the box usually, and the tubes and plugs to do the job. It is best to do this in a vise, but I didn't have one, so I held on to it as best as I could and did it myself. Trust me, it is easier in a vise. Make sure you have protective eyewear.

If the brake line fittings are like everything else on the car spray some wd-40 (Or something better-whatever that may be) and let them soak before loosening them from the MC. You don't want to round off those brake line fittings for sure. After putting in the MC (its two bolts into the booster) you'll have to bleed the system one more time. I *Think* but am not positive that different cars may want you to bleed in a specific sequence. Check that Camry manual and see. Might as well change the fluid out while you are in there. It won't take any longer really.

I love this board. I have learned so much from it, and there are some great on-going conversations as well. I have not found anything close to this site on the web. I must admit that I haven't really dug around either, I don't feel like I need to.

So is your friend doing cartwheels at this point? He must be pretty happy to have you helping out. Take it easy.
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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold
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  #14  
Old 09-07-2002, 09:28 AM
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when you bleed the brakes with the pump method never push the pedal all the way to the floor. this could possibly damage your master cylinder by making the seals go over corroded spots that they normally never get to. use little pumps, or better yet use a pressure/vacuum bleeding device if applicable. many japanese cars do not have screw-on brake reservoir covers so that the pressure bleeders won't work. bleeding the brakes to me equates to replacing all the fluid. follow the procedures posted here - they should be just about identical. start from the wheel farthest from the reservoir and work your way in. the only other possible source of sponginess are the brake lines but that's probably not the case...
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  #15  
Old 09-07-2002, 11:00 PM
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I'll probably help him do the brake fluid then when I get Mityvac (I could use it to diagnose my vacuum system anyway..). However I'd leave anything else to someone more experienced...

(He is still wondering where to take his Camry to if it breaks, which I doubt.... maybe I'll ask my mechanic for any recomenndations.. I have a great mechanic! Has saved me a lot of money)

Yeah he's pretty happy that I'm helping him fix his Camry when everyone else just told him "dump that POS and get a new car".
I think that 'old' Camry rides better than a 1999 Civic LX.

I looked around for a Toyota forum but I just couldn't find one... I found Toyotanation but it's filled with people who are just crazy about modifications! Not enough technical discussion.
so... I found barely anything useful...

This board is amazing when it comes to technical discussions I must admit. The members also have enough humor to keep it nice and alive!!

I love this place if I didn't find it I don't think I'd be driving a 20yr old Benz. In fact one of the reasons why I felt easy getting the 300CD was this board!

Keep it up!

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