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#1
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Waxing skis?
Does anyone do this themselves? I just got a new pair of skis today, and am interested in how to do this. I always just sent it to the shop, but the idea of saving money is real attractive to me. I have no idea what to do, as the only I have ever done myself was this sort of wipe on wipe off instant wax. Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated...
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#2
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It is easy.
First go here to get your supplies http://www.tognar.com/ while you are there, get some ptex and a ptex iron. Ptex is used to fill deep gouges plus get some straps to stop your ski break from sticking up while you work. Note that wax is intended for stated temperature ranges. What they don’t tell you is that the temperature is of the air and not the snow. Get a couple of types Next get either an official wax iron or go to your local Good Will or Value Village and get an old clothing iron (what I did about 15 years ago). Heat is critical. You need just enough heat to melt wax. Do not let the iron EVER be stationary on the ski. The process is simple, hold the iron about 8" or so over the ski, next press the wax against the iron so that it will drip a nice bead of wax onto the ski. move the iron and wax along the leingth of the ski. Next use the iron on the ski directly to spread the wax thinly over the surface. Again *do*not*over*heat*the*ski* or you’ll rot the base material. After that you may want to use a straight edge (also available at tognar) to scrape of excess wax and to even it out. The ideal wax job puts a very thin film over the ski. Problem with the ideal wax is that it lasts about ½ of one run. What I do is to use the iron as stated above, and leave it. This lasts for a couple of days. Problem with the approach I use is that the skis will be a little slow for the first run or 2. After that, it is as good as it gets. Oh, yeah, Tognar also has lots of how to stuff...
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...Tracy '00 ML320 "Casper" '92 400E "Stella" |
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#3
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Thanks, I'll check it out.
Any other basic ski tuning advice? I got into skiing when I was 12 with the Boy Scouts. I am now 21, and still love the sport, but since I am the only one who skis in my family, I have been teaching myself... |
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#4
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two items
1) Take the skis somewhere to have the edges and base ground. While you can do it yourself, you will never get close to the quality or precision of finish the $20 K machines used in ski shops get. 2) The best tuning advise is to do *everything* humanly possible to get 60+ days of skiing per season. Your life may be in ruins because of it, but you will never have even a moment of regret.
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...Tracy '00 ML320 "Casper" '92 400E "Stella" |
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#5
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As always Tracy offers good advise.
In addition there are also so companies out their that make a great rub on wax. Great for bringing along but not as good as a hot wax. Again be careful with the iron not to delaminate the base. If your not familiar with how to sharpen your edges, take it to a shop and kindly ask them to show you how to do it. Its not hard but it's often done wrong. Have fun !
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Brandon 2008 S550 1957 Dodge D100 1967 VW Microbus 21 Window 2001 Suburban 2004 Beach cruiser bicycle -----------------GO DUKE!----------------- "It cannot be emphasized too strongly or too often that this great nation was founded not by religionists, but by Christians; not on religion, but on the Gospel of Jesus Christ. For that reason alone, people of other faiths have been afforded freedom of worship here." Patrick Henry 1776 |
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#6
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What skis did you decide on? The Volkl carvers?
I'd echo the comments to bring them to a good ski shop, with an emphasis on GOOD. Most big cities have one or two elitist ski shops that are the mecca for serious skiers. These shops have the best equipment and trained staff who are usually all diehard skiers themselves. You won't be able to wax and sharpen/grind and fill the skis like they do for the cost. I get mine fully tuned and hot waxed for $30 CDN. You can't beat that. I use fluoro wax inbetween tunings to keep the base waxed (yes, there's a whole debate about fluoro waxing but I've used it for years with no probs and I don't want to get into that here). It wears off quickly but does the trick in between tunings. I tune mine every 4-5 sessions. Your Volkls will likely have a dark base which makes it easier to see when the base starts to dry out. Keep them well waxed, don't let them dry up and above all - RIP IT UP!!!!
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Chris 2007 E550 4Matic - 61,000 Km - Iridium Silver, black leather, Sport package, Premium 2 package 2007 GL450 4Matic - 62,000 Km - Obsidian Black Metallic, black leather, all options 1998 E430 - sold 1989 300E - 333,000 Km - sold 1977 280E - sold 1971 250 - retired "And a frign hat. They gave me a hat at the annual benefits meeting. I said. how does this benefit me. I dont have anything from the company.. So they gave me a hat." - TheDon |
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#7
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Yea, I went with the Volkl V3 carvers, with marker M10 bindings. I am quite please. They were at my door, bindings mounted for $200.
Is it advisable to get them waxed/wax them myself before I use them? I know most skis come from the factory waxed, but I have heard that waxing them with a good wax new is a good idea. |
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#8
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Nice skis!!!
You'll love them! Yup, get them hot waxed and get them tuned for you as well before you use them. A good shop will tune them according to your skiing style/ability. They'll set up the edges accordingly and set the bindings as well. I dull my edges quickly and the icy conditions we get here in eastern Canada don't help matters. Keeping the skis in top tuned shape will really make a difference!
Now you're getting me all ancy for the season to begin...see what you've started? ![]() I think I'll bring my skis in tomorrow...
__________________
Chris 2007 E550 4Matic - 61,000 Km - Iridium Silver, black leather, Sport package, Premium 2 package 2007 GL450 4Matic - 62,000 Km - Obsidian Black Metallic, black leather, all options 1998 E430 - sold 1989 300E - 333,000 Km - sold 1977 280E - sold 1971 250 - retired "And a frign hat. They gave me a hat at the annual benefits meeting. I said. how does this benefit me. I dont have anything from the company.. So they gave me a hat." - TheDon |
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#9
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Another element of tuning is to take lessons from a certified instructor. Even after 30 years of skiing I still take a lesson or 2 per year. Lessons provide excellent feedback and goes a long to help technique, ease body fatigue. Always employ a so-called L3 for your instructor. These are the top skill level instructors.
Eric - where does your aunt ski?? Vokl, generally new skis are not waxed. Depending on where you got them they may be tuned. It is very common for new skis to need attenton. They are often slightly concave or convex. Easy to tell is to put a flat edge across the bottom of each ski and check it for flatness in 4 or 5 places. And then check that the first 10" or so of the edges at the front and about 5" in back of the ski are dull.
__________________
...Tracy '00 ML320 "Casper" '92 400E "Stella" |
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