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Advice needed: to paint, or not to paint, garage floor
After many years of sealing, and periodically re-sealing, my concrete garage floor, I am thinking about painting it. My main motivation is better visibility when I work on the cars. I noticed that the Griot's Garage catalogue offers a paint that they claim is outstanding, won't lift off, or so they say. Anyone with experience with Griot's, or any other paint, I would most appreciate your expertise. This is not a heated garage, though I do run a small space heater when I do things in the winter. The walls are insulated, and I have insulation panels with bright aluminum backing as my ceiling.
Anyone with preparation tips, I would be most grateful. Anyone who thinks it would be a bad idea, please weigh in. |
#2
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I've done this, though I don't recall the manufacturer.
Most of the work is in the preparation (like any good paint job). You'll need to make sure you remove all oil from the concrete before application. I found it made working in the garage much more pleasant, no grit mixing with oil on tools and parts, much easier to mop up spillage, etc.
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'79 280SE '87 560SEL '83 280CE '01 Nissan Micra '98 VW Passat '83 911 turbo |
#3
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Thanks, jjl. Keep your thoughts in mind. I have noticed over the years the grit and oil issues. When I seal it, it looks great for a while, but eventually it just doesn't shed things as well. Hard to keep clean.
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#4
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I am also considering painting my garage floor, though its a ways down my list yet.
These two companies seem to have excellent products. When I finally do paint the floor I only want to do it once. Have a look at these and see what you think: Ucoatit Muscle gloss
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Scott Diener 89 300E 93 300E 92 Volvo 740 Wagon aka "Mutt mover" |
#5
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I looked into some sealers during garage construction. Then I thought about paint, after the sealer had been applied. It seems most of the paint and sealers warn about attempting to put one over the other. I wonder if painting is even an option for me. I am off to re-read the 5 gal. bucket of sealer.
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79 240D (no name yet) 203K Miles Maple Yellow 98 2500 4x4 HD Dodge 24 Valve Cummins TD 83 Chevy Van (Dead-Trans. shot) |
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No experience with the products mentioned, but I can tell you not to use the Behr concrete paint from Home Depot. Hot tires will lift it in short order.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#7
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If the concrete has been sealed you are going to have to strip and "etch" the concrete before you apply paint. If you don't I can send you pictures of what it will look like
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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif 15 VW Passat TDI 00 E420 98 E300 DT 97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME! 97 S500 97 E300D 86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D 86 300SDL (o\|/o) |
#8
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All opinions much appreciated. I know the Griot website mentions etching with muriatic acid. I think I'll research it seriously before painting. Thanks for all your help.
Joe |
#9
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Quote:
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#10
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I painted mine with epoxy floor coating that I bought from Home Depot made by Rust Oleum several years ago. The result has been better than expected, to say the least Contrary to claims by most of these products, the hot tires in the summer, especially after high speed driving, will lift the paint. Solution, I bought rubber/vinyl sheet and cut them 2X2 and place them under the tires. They work great. For older floors, etching is a must. Good surface preparation is very important, just like painting any surface. Otherwis, the coating will not adhere properly. The dirty snow crap in the winter can be washed off easily is another benefit. I suggest that you do it on a low humidity day to expedite drying and adhesion process. You need to etch a few days before the coating so the floor is dried properly. The whole process is not really that time consuming. Rolling on the coating is pretty easy process once you've got the floor etched.
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Flash Gordon 2003 E500 BlackOpal/Charcoal 2004 Infiniti G35X |
#11
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I painted the garage when we moved into the house in 1992. this is a complicated job.
I used Sherwin-Williams (SW) 2 part Industrial Epoxy with grit added so it's not slippery when wet. I chose battleship gray as a color but you can have them tint it to about any color. A note. Use 2 part epoxy not one part paint or stain. The hot tires of the car and the slight squrming of the front wheels will lift anything but 2 part industrial epoxy. It cost me $400 for a 3 car garage. It's about 1 gallon for a standard car position. And since the SW came in gallons I had 4 gallons to use. With about 1/2 left over. 1. You must use muratic acid to remove the compounds in concrete that will allow the paint to peal up. 2. You can not drive on the epoxy for 21 days to allow it to cure. You can walk on it after 24 hours. but no cars for 21 days. 3. Prep is everything. Wash, degrease like mad and then the acid wash. 4. You have about 8 hours of working time with the SW epoxy. 5. I poored it on the floor and used a roller. 6. Consider applying a heavy cote where the tires will go. Make sure you don't go to thin. I have a few thin spots that I could of used that extra 1/2 gallon on. 7. After 24 hours you can walk on it. I would wait 2-3 days before machinery goes on it. Then that dreaded 21 days for your car. My floor is in good shape. It has some age on it but I am very happy with the results. I am now starting to get some tire lifting after 14 years. Cleanup is great. I use 409 or the degreaser Costco sells. Anything that spills will cleanup easily. The battery acid I spilled on it discolored it slightly. That's the only blemish on the epoxy. Besides all the dirt and grime from years of use. But 409 cleans it up really well. If you put the grit in the epoxy it does cut down on the slipperyness of the floor. However it does tear up a mop pretty good, sort of like sandpaper. Dave PS Consider doing 1/2 at a time. That way you can shove everything to one side. Complete it and after 2-3 days shove everything to the other side and finish the garage. My job wa easy. We were moving across town and had 2 houses for a while. So I did a couple of things to the house while it was empty. Epoxying the garage was one of them.
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#12
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Thanks for the thorough replies. Will keep your post as a guideline, Dave.
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#13
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I'm resurrecting this one to see if anyone has any new ideas.
Who has painted their garage floor, what did you use and how happy are you with the results?
Also, any alternatives to painting that you've used? Thanks, Al |
#14
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Quote:
And brake fluid will take it right up.
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When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace. Jimi Hendrix |
#15
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If I ever clean my shop out, I'll be using the epoxy. My floor is painted now and it's peeling up pretty badly.
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
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